This is an exciting line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. The 5.6 rating seemed miserly, and the rock seemed a bit scaly. This route starts just left of a large, right-facing dihedral and traverses out to a slab to a two bolt anchor. An Estes wind can make this more than exciting. You may be finish with the third pitch of Tilted Mitten
. According to Gillett's guide, the overhanging arête has not gone free, yet. There are more lines to play on here (One of Life's Little Problems
& its 5.8 variation, Black Lichen Streak
, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned
, and Thin Crack
) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten
starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large, right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 feet up and right from the nadir. You could TR this (with lots of directionals) after leading pitch 1 of One of Life's Little Problems
Traverse left into this climb with a bulging, awkward start. You can sort of protect this with a large cam before you go left. Anchor your belayer. Make a long reach out left to a flake and get stable. Move up to a good stance. Now choose left (easier) or right (harder, 8?) until the holds run out. Now make slab moves (7?) above a small cam (blue Alien) placement to a #4 Camalot slot, sling a horn, and clip the two bolt anchor with links. It has a free hanging rappel.
Cams to #4 Camalot.
Traversing on to Sunset Arete.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008
We started the climb very low, which made the initial traverse quite easy. On the upper part of the pitch, we took the right hand line up the crack. This definitely felt exciting, especially on the licheny, sandy rock.
The climb is worth doing, the moves are fun.
By George Bracksieck
Sep 6, 2012
The left-hand variation felt like 5.8. The right-hand looked harder. You have to work for pro in places and run it in between. Kept me on my toes, so to speak.
By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First time with a GoPro. It survived my knocking it on the rock.