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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunset Arete 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: S. Kimball & T. Hansen, 1984
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: Deb Thompson on Dec 10, 2005

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Description 

This is an exciting line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. The 5.6 rating seemed miserly, and the rock seemed a bit scaly. This route starts just left of a large, right-facing dihedral and traverses out to a slab to a two bolt anchor. An Estes wind can make this more than exciting. You may be finish with the third pitch of Tilted Mitten. According to Gillett's guide, the overhanging arÍte has not gone free, yet. There are more lines to play on here (One of Life's Little Problems & its 5.8 variation, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.

Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large, right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 feet up and right from the nadir. You could TR this (with lots of directionals) after leading pitch 1 of One of Life's Little Problems.

Traverse left into this climb with a bulging, awkward start. You can sort of protect this with a large cam before you go left. Anchor your belayer. Make a long reach out left to a flake and get stable. Move up to a good stance. Now choose left (easier) or right (harder, 8?) until the holds run out. Now make slab moves (7?) above a small cam (blue Alien) placement to a #4 Camalot slot, sling a horn, and clip the two bolt anchor with links. It has a free hanging rappel.


Protection 

Cams to #4 Camalot.



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Traversing on to Sunset Arete.
Traversing on to Sunset Arete.
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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008

We started the climb very low, which made the initial traverse quite easy. On the upper part of the pitch, we took the right hand line up the crack. This definitely felt exciting, especially on the licheny, sandy rock.

The climb is worth doing, the moves are fun.

By George Bracksieck
Sep 6, 2012

The left-hand variation felt like 5.8. The right-hand looked harder. You have to work for pro in places and run it in between. Kept me on my toes, so to speak.