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BETA PHOTO: topo by Reid Dowdle
Corner system above the descent gully.
Can be done as 5.10a A1 by aiding through the crux.
photo trip report by Brad Brandewie
right side of South face, starts from partway up the descent gully. Lower class 5 to climb around the chockstone in the gully.
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - South Face
8. Lost Horizons 5....
Paul Kejla nearing the top of the first pitch.
Looking up at the summit overhangs and the bombay ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at P2 of Sunrise Book.
Mar 21, 2008
Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!).
|By Scotty Nelson|
Aug 5, 2008
I thought the topo was right on. P3 is 9+ if you are used to that style of climbing (handcrack in the back of a flare). We linked the last two pitches together. The bombay chimney is so much fun!
|By Monica Jones|
Aug 19, 2010
My boyfriend and I both tried to free this one and neither of us got it. We hiked up canyon and started on the 5.9 pitch that puts you underneath the 11+ that goes into the 12-. The 11+ pitch was very serious with long runouts over marginal gear. I backed off it but my boyfriend got it on his second try. We both traded off on the 12- which has tons of fixed nuts so it's more like a sport climb with a really hard boulder problem at the top. Gorgeous line though.
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there!
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
5.10 A1 for weaklings like me. Not to be missed though. The free sections (most of route) are great.