Sunrise Book 

Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!).

I thought the topo was right on. P3 is 9+ if you are used to that style of climbing (handcrack in the back of a flare). We linked the last two pitches together. The bombay chimney is so much fun!

My boyfriend and I both tried to free this one and neither of us got it. We hiked up canyon and started on the 5.9 pitch that puts you underneath the 11+ that goes into the 12-. The 11+ pitch was very serious with long runouts over marginal gear. I backed off it but my boyfriend got it on his second try. We both traded off on the 12- which has tons of fixed nuts so it's more like a sport climb with a really hard boulder problem at the top. Gorgeous line though.

There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there!

5.10 A1 for weaklings like me. Not to be missed though. The free sections (most of route) are great.