Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Summit Blocks - East (Main)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across The Universe S 
Arriba Su Vientre T 
Caveman Television T,S 
Dig A Pony S,TR 
Dig It S,TR 
Eaks it Out T 
Flakes to Fresno T,TR 
Hardly Worth the Trouble T 
Limís Cramp Chimney TR 
Sunnyside T,S 
Vanceís Vertical Vent T,TR 
Wave, The TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunnyside 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: All!
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: John Knight on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pic showing one of the adjacent TR routes. Klis ge...

Description 

Steep, thin start leads to a fun mantle onto a big ledge. The lower portion feels a bit like Shadow. This makes a nice connecting route to the summit after climbing Garden Party, Dark Side or any of the P-Wall routes. Can easily be set up as a top rope if you don't want to lead it.

I would call this a "soft 5.9". The only 5.9 move is in the first 10' off the ground. The rest is 5.8 or easier. This would be a good climb for a 5.8 leader wanting to break into 5.9.

After climbing in the shadows of the far right side of P-Wall, a transition to Sunnyside provides a nice sunny route with great views.

The poison oak at the base is not as bad as rumored.


Location 

Wander from the top of P-Wall westerly to the base of Sunnyside & look up. You should be looking at a clean, steep wall with the summit blocks directly above you. If you're looking at a big, dirty crack you're too far to the right.


Protection 

Mix of draws and a bit of gear to protect the mantle move. Runout but easy at the top.



Photos of Sunnyside Slideshow Add Photo
Sunnyside Topo. Bring draws and medium sized gear.
BETA PHOTO: Sunnyside Topo. Bring draws and medium sized gear.
june 5
june 5
june 5 (photo by John Knight)
june 5 (photo by John Knight)
Comments on Sunnyside Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Geyer
Nov 5, 2008

The base of this climb is chock full of poison oak, however, there is a nice boulder on which to stand and belay. The helpful tip is to clip a long sling (36"+) off the first bolt and flake your rope over that...This is a good climb that is worth a 'high maintenance' belay.

By Bryan Carroll
From: Los Osos, CA
Jun 5, 2010

This is a really fun lead, and if you want to protect the runout after bolt four, bring a few small cams. If you are feeling up for a fun adventure, lead Grotto 5.6 (follow trail west past dark side of P-wall. Grotto is worth the short hike, John Knight also put in some sweet new bolts) then scramble up to sunnyside.

By John Knight
Jun 11, 2010

Just to clarify the "new bolts" added to Grotto were replacing the old 1/4" bolts Pete Gulyash placed on lead 20 something years ago. The bolts were replaced in the exact same holes as the old bolts.