|Summit Blocks - East (Main)
Steep, thin start leads to a fun mantle onto a big ledge. The lower portion feels a bit like Shadow. This makes a nice connecting route to the summit after climbing Garden Party, Dark Side or any of the P-Wall routes. Can easily be set up as a top rope if you don't want to lead it.
I would call this a "soft 5.9". The only 5.9 move is in the first 10' off the ground. The rest is 5.8 or easier. This would be a good climb for a 5.8 leader wanting to break into 5.9.
After climbing in the shadows of the far right side of P-Wall, a transition to Sunnyside provides a nice sunny route with great views.
The poison oak at the base is not as bad as rumored.
Wander from the top of P-Wall westerly to the base of Sunnyside & look up. You should be looking at a clean, steep wall with the summit blocks directly above you. If you're looking at a big, dirty crack you're too far to the right.
Mix of draws and a bit of gear to protect the mantle move. Runout but easy at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Sunnyside Topo. Bring draws and medium sized gear.
june 5 (photo by John Knight)
|By Matthew Geyer|
Nov 5, 2008
The base of this climb is chock full of poison oak, however, there is a nice boulder on which to stand and belay. The helpful tip is to clip a long sling (36"+) off the first bolt and flake your rope over that...This is a good climb that is worth a 'high maintenance' belay.
|By Bryan Carroll|
From: Los Osos, CA
Jun 5, 2010
This is a really fun lead, and if you want to protect the runout after bolt four, bring a few small cams. If you are feeling up for a fun adventure, lead Grotto 5.6 (follow trail west past dark side of P-wall. Grotto is worth the short hike, John Knight also put in some sweet new bolts) then scramble up to sunnyside.
|By John Knight|
Jun 11, 2010
Just to clarify the "new bolts" added to Grotto were replacing the old 1/4" bolts Pete Gulyash placed on lead 20 something years ago. The bolts were replaced in the exact same holes as the old bolts.