Sunnyside Up  5.10

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  E. Baca & E. Wright, 2003 Season:  Gets all day sun Submitted By:  Tony B on Jan 1, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

J.A. follows up on the crux of SunnySide Up (5.10)...

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Description 

A good enough route, but a little hard to find at first.
Approach the South side of the spires in whatever manner you choose. From the notch between the two, as for Peekaboo Jesus, head downhill to the right (Eastward, on the lower spire) to a broad right-facing corner system. Dane Bass's book makes it look like the route is on the right of this corner, but it isn't- it starts on the left.
P1 (5.9, 88'): Follow the obvious bolt line through mostly moderate terrain to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Not much to say here.
P2 (5.10, 100'): Start up and left off of the belay past an early crux. Get out past this and pass a little loos rock potential to get back onto a solid face. Pass an intermediate anchor and head up and left to a crack and corner system near the top, where the climbing gets strenuous again for a few moves. Then top out on a bolted anchor.
To retreat, rap to the intermediate belay station for perhaps 40', then a second rap to the P1 top belay, then the ground. This can be done on a 50M or 60M rope.
with a 60M or 70M rope, one can combine the first 2 raps as well, but be careful with the ends and don't get them caught pulling them.

Location 

This route is the Eastern-most route on t eh S side of the spires and can be located by walking downhill on that side, watching 6 meters up for the first bolt in low angle rock.

Protection 

15+ draws for P2, P1 requires fewer...
With long slings (and enough of them), you could link the entire route.