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Palisade Head
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A mind Forever Voyaging 
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 
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Pussyfoot T 
Quetico Crack T,TR 
Rapprochement T,TR 
Scars and Tripes Forever T 
Socket Wrench T,TR 
Soli Deo Gloria T 
Squab T 
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 
Superior Arete T,TR 
Superior Crack T,TR 
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 
Urge to Mate T,TR 
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 
Water Babies T,TR 
Wise Guys T,TR 
Withering Heights T,TR 
Yellow Feather T 

Sunny and Sheer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Eric Fazio-Ricard FFA: Krzysztof Gorny, July 2015
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: Rob P. on Jan 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Sailing between water and rock on Sunny and Sheer....


This is a really fun top rope. Great exposure and fun pumpy face climbing up the arete to the left of Palace-Aid and Hidden Treasure.

Climb the obvious multi-layered juggy flake that does not appear to be attached to anything for 30 feet into a series of big holds followed by the balancy and technical crux on the right side of the arete. Move back left following a crack system with face holds to the top.

The route can be led on gear. Take plenty of small cams (c3's and up to 0.75 BD). Few good shallow placements in solid horizontal cracks. Some 'good looking' placements in questionable rock that would hold body weight. Burly crux protects with few decent pieces (including dyneema sling around the jug hold). 'R'-rating for necessity to place body-weight pro behind wiggling flakes. Three stars for quality of movement.


The arete to climbers left of Palace-Aid and Hidden Treasure.


Gear anchor at the top. For lead gear, see description above.

Photos of Sunny and Sheer Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Groth doing a lap on Sunny And Shear.
Dave Groth doing a lap on Sunny And Shear.
Leading Sunny and Sheer. July 4th, 2015.
Leading Sunny and Sheer. July 4th, 2015.

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