Sunlight Spire Rock Climbing
Sunlight Peak and Sunlight Spire from Eolus
Sunlight Spire is a quarter mile southeast of Sunlight Peak in Colorado's Needle Mountains. It lies on the ridge between Windom and Sunlight. It would be Colorado's most difficult fourteener, except that it is so close to Sunlight Peak and there is very little drop between the two. The topo map lists its elevation as 13,995' but a recent survey upgraded to an even 14K.
You walk right past this Sunlight Spire on the usual route up Sunlight Peak. Sunlight Spire doesn't look very impressive except for the monolithic summit block which makes it so hard to climb. The top is a hundred-foot tall "obelisk". If you look carefully you'll see a beautiful splitter crack facing you as you near the summit of Sunlight Peak. This slightly overhanging crack faces southwest.
The usual (and shortest) approach is to take the train to Needleton and hike up into Chicago Basin. This is the standard approach for climbing the 14ers Windom, Sunlight and Eolus. A longer approach with no train ride begins from Vallecito Reservoir and crosses Columbine Pass.
Climbing Season For the San Juans area.
Weather station 11.4 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sunlight Spire
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunlight Spire:
Featured Route For Sunlight Spire
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Sunlight Spire
From the standard route on Sunlight Peak leave the trail at about 13,700' and head up a steep slope to the base of the summit block. This approach is 3rd class but rather loose and steep for about 300 feet.A short Class 4 to 5.6 pitch (depending on line chosen) leads to the base of the overhanging crack. This crack is a perfect size for jamming but is rather sustained and made more difficult by the altitude. The start is made easier by a ramp you can work your feet along, but the ramp eventua...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Sunlight Peak on the left and Sunlight Spire on th...
Jagged from Windom or Sunlight, I don't recall....
Looking at Sunlight and Windom from the pass above...