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Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, Kelly Baldwin, Mary Zuvela and Brad Short
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,204
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 15, 2004
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Brenda stepping onto the slab at the upper crux.
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Description 

Start just right of Mind Bender at a single bolt belay on a large ledge. Climb straight up from the anchor follow a line of bolts to a small overhang. Veer right under the overhang, reach for good holds and fire straight up to a good stance. At the 7th bolt, you could go left or right. Stay left for this route - the right ones are for Arcanum. Continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor. Good route with good protection and holds.

Anyone wishing to change, pull or chop the bolts must get permission by everyone in the FA party.


Protection 

Eleven quickdraws will get to the anchor.



Photos of Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid Slideshow Add Photo
Woody cruising to the top.
Woody cruising to the top.
Peter Dillon at the crux move around the arete at the 8th bolt.
Peter Dillon at the crux move around the arete at ...
Woody has the good edge for his right hand; no stretch required.
Woody has the good edge for his right hand@SEMICOL...
Peter Dillon at the roof, getting ready to make the clip.
Peter Dillon at the roof, getting ready to make th...
Brenda stretching for a good edge.
Brenda stretching for a good edge.
Woody at the last bolt.
Woody at the last bolt.
Woody stepping onto the slab at the upper crux.
Woody stepping onto the slab at the upper crux.
Cindy cranking over the roof.
Cindy cranking over the roof.
Comments on Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid Add Comment
Show which comments
By BL
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Good route, I think crux was the smear move right on the slab arete above the roof bit - 10c.

bob

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

Bob I must say it's impressive the number of first ascents of quality you have done in this state. Bolts or no bolts. That level of motivation ought to be applauded. Don't let the T Bubbs of the world keep you from posting to this site.

By Dana Ernst
Aug 24, 2004

This a great addition to the wall. With more ascents it should clean up nicely. A 60M rope makes it back to the belay bolt with a few feet to spare.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

An interesting route with an exciting crux. The traverse right under the roof is committing and airy. I found the clip over the roof to be a bit pumpy, with OK but not great handholds. Move a little left to reach a good high hold after the clip. Above, angle right to do the standard finish to an anchor shared with Arcanum. It's also possible to move left and finish on Mind Bender, as we saw done by another party.

I counted 9 bolts on the pitch, which is about 95' long. You can belay from a small stance at the anchor if you want to do the second pitch of Arcanum (5.8 to 5.9) to the top of the rock, or lower with a 60m rope back to the start. If you do the Arcanum finish, bring a red Alien to protect the move to the second bolt, and bring a wired nut to thread the top bolt which is missing a hanger.

Sleeping Beauty has a neat summit with great views; you should make it up there at least once on your trips to this crag.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I guess I was confused by the route description, which said to "continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor." This led me to the anchor on Arcanum, which is up to the right at the top of a short corner.

The party I saw that went to the proper anchor went a little left at the top, not right. Perhaps, the route description could be clarified a bit.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 26, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I went back and climbed this route again, this time doing the correct finish. It is an excellent climb, one of the best I've done on Sleeping Beauty.There are 9 bolts on the pitch.

Here's how I would describe the climb:

Climb a low-angle slab and a steep corner below a roof. Clip the fourth bolt and make a committing traverse right under the roof to good holds above the lip. Clip the fifth bolt and surmount the roof (10b) to a stance. Step right and climb steep rock past two more bolts. Angle slightly left to the 8th bolt in a short, leaning, left-facing corner. Swing right around the arete (10c), clip the final bolt, and continue up and left to the anchor.

In my earlier ascent, I angled right at the 7th bolt instead of left; this put me on Arcanum.

If you go to Sleeping Beauty, be sure to do this route!

By shad O'Neel
Sep 14, 2004

This is the only route with a one-bolt anchor at the base, although the start may be confusing. There are two bolts visible 8-10 feet up, you want to go towards the right one. This all sorts itself out once you start up, but from the ground I was confused. I was pleasantly surprised at how fun this route was, from the start it looked iffy, but is well worthwhile. My shorter partner found the moves under the roof pretty reachy, and hard a harder time than I did. This climb is interesting the entire time, up to the second you clip the anchor.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Good climb. Tied with Mind Bender for the best route I have done there. The grade is probably height-dependent, going right at the bulge into the horizontal. A short climber would lose their good feet before matching hands in it.

You can continue on ??? for a 180' climb by clipping one bolt at the belay and going up and slightly left past a few bolts for 80 or 90 more feet to the top; belay on a tree at the edge or set a directional on this and head right to the 2nd pitch top-anchor of 'Arcanum'. Two 1-rope raps (60M OR LONGER) will get you down.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I think the bolts on this route are spaced for a tall person. I found I would climb to a bolt, clip it, and have some very easy climbing. Then there would be a harder move right before the next bolt, so all the potential falls were long, and some had ledge fall potential.

The bolt at the crux is a very long reach. If you wait to clip it until after you do the move, then you have the potential of breaking your ankles if you blow the crux.

I enjoyed the climb, maybe if I were 5'10" or taller I wouldn't be bothered by the bolts, but it just seemed to me that if several of the bolts were 6" lower, the climb would be far more mellow... but people like spice, right?

By PRRose
From: Boulder
May 30, 2011

Nut on the bolt below the roof is loose.