|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, 850', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]|
|FA:||Jon Martinet & Randal Grandstaff|
|Submitted By:||John Wilder on Feb 1, 2004|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sunflower||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Doug Hemken
Apr 1, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Very nice route, comparable in quality to Sundog.
The belay at the end of pitch 2 has a single new bolt, and currently there is a fixed nut as well. There appear to be some alternate starts that will get you this far, including the original start to Solar Slab (described here), but the most fun is to run up p1 of the modern Solar Slab, then continue up and right in the inviting crack (5.8).
Pitch 3 continues up a flake system, then launches up a slabby crack system. It would be nice if the pitch ended in the large dish, but unfortunately the FA party continued up and left another 30 feet. The belay bolts (beefed up with the addition of a new bolt) are hidden at first, but there is a protection bolt you pass on the way, so route finding is no issue.
There is lots of friable rock in this final section of pitch 3 and for the first part of pitch 4. It's not too much trouble for the leader to sort it all out, but there are some chunks that are potentially hazardous to your belayer or to people on the Sunporch ledge system at the base of Solar Slab. The chunk of rock you stand on while belaying at the top of pitch 3 is of particular concern - we could feel it move whenever we shifted our weight. Someone really ought to move this belay station down and right to the big dish - it would be more comfortable, safer for the belayer, and safer for people down on the Sunporch.
The additional bolts on pitch 4 make this a very comfortable lead. Take time to marvel at how the FA party ran it out on the only loose rock on the route!
Once you hit the crack system on the second half of pitch 4, its a romp. Belay anywhere convenient. With double ropes, you can retreat from as high as the top of pitch 3 and only leave slings and rap rings.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I thought this route was incredibly fun. I'm surprised that it doesn't see a lot more traffic, because it's great. We did this climb after starting with Beulah's Book and loved the linkup of the two routes.
I also didn't find it to be particularly runout.
There is some rock that is not well attached, as mentioned by Doug Hemken above. In addition, when we climbed this route on 11/23/2006 we found that the bolt that protects the crux move is partially pulled out of the rock. If you are uncomfortable with 9 slab moves, you might find this unnerving. Otherwise, go for it and have fun.
Apr 26, 2010
did the route last week and found it to be super fun.
there are 5 bolts on P4 - bolts 2 and 4 are ancient - but this slab section is truly no harder the 5.9 and still well protected by the other 3 bolts by Yosemite / Tuolumne standards.
the 2nd pitch of fingers / hands is excellent.
this is a great route up Solar Slab
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jan 16, 2011
|The flakes you stand on at the top of p3 are sketchy! I shifted my weight and heard it creek 3 feet away.|