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If you're looking for an alternate 1st pitch to Frog's Head
, this IS the line.
It follows very closely to the right of Frog's Head
, and at some points you can actually reach out and tickle your neighbor (NOT RECOMMENDED!).
Begin behind the right side of the Frog's Head
block for a series of chimney moves (read: groveling). The chimney moves edge towards the 5.7 range. The start overlaps to some extent with Frog's Head
, so you may have to negotiate for space.
Once you are on the route proper, climb the thin and beautiful orange face (crux) past a small vertical crack and some long reaches between good, albeit small, horizontals. The climbing lets up quite a bit, then you can continue to enjoy mellow and airy Gunks face climbing all the way to the Frog's Head
chain anchors atop the flake/block, or to the bolted rappel anchors to the right.
A second pitch wanders up looser rock to the GT ledge, again just right of Frog's Head
. You can also finish with P2 of Maria
, or P2 of Kama Sutra (5.6+, to the left of Maria
Descent: rappel from chains.
A standard rack. Yellow Camalot for the crux moves down low is helpful.
Apr 20, 2010
The crux is quite a thoughtful then committing move, with gear below your feet, and seemed pretty hard-8 to me.
We continued up the second pitch of Kama Sutra, which goes straight up from the double-bolt rappel anchor mid-cliff. It seemed very PG, and very 5.6++, especially right at the top ... I would not put a 5.6 leader on it, to be sure. Not sure I ever want to lead it, myself!
By Dana Bartlett
Mar 25, 2011
I've done the second pitch of Kama Sutra, and Julie's impressions seem accurate to me. The protection is good, but there is no distinct line, the rock quality in a few spots is mediocre, there's a fair amount of dirt from runoff, and it's harder than 5.6.