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Sundown Ledge

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Alcohol Wall 
Boulder Loop Trail Boulders 
Call of the Wild Cliff 
Far Cliff, The 
Gill's Groove Crag 
Lost Horizon  
Main Cliff 
Outback Cliff 
Parking Lot Boulders 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sundown Ledge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.00669, -71.23158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,067
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 19, 2012
Forecast:
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Andrew pulls the roof on Romper Room.

Description 

This area encompasses all of Sundown's many separate cliffs: The Main Cliff, Lost Horizon Cliff, The Outback Cliff, The Far Cliff, and Gill's Groove Crag.

Sundown Ledge is really the centerpiece of the Kancamagus climbing area. While probably 90% of the climbing activity is rightly focused on The Main Cliff or Lost Horizon Cliff, climbers who venture off the beaten path will be rewarded by solitude, and in some cases, some of the best climbing the area has to offer.

Getting There 

All of the Sundown cliffs can be accessed from the parking lot by the Albany Covered Bridge. This is located where Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road) intersects with the Kancamagus Highway.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

89 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',16],['5.12',17],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sundown Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sundown Ledge:
Razor Crack   C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches   Main Cliff
Rock Garden    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Lost Horizon
Stiletto   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Cliff
Classic Rock   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Lost Horizon
Bon Temps Rouler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Main Cliff
Rough Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Kennel Boy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Lost Horizon
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Main Cliff
Tits Out for the Lads   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Cliff
Dikenstein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Main Cliff
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Main Cliff
Shadowline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 50'   Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Main Cliff
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sundown Ledge

Featured Route For Sundown Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: The Promised Land angles left over big holds, hits...

The Promised Land 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
This is the somewhat traversing line to the left of Eyeless in Gaza that makes use of the obvious sharp fin about midway up the wall. Although it doesn't see nearly the attention that Eyeless does, it's a really good route and a change of pace at Sundown, where relatively juggy climbs can be hard to come by. Start up the same chimney as Eyeless, then traverse left, using the obvious shelf for your hands and some small feet. Pull an awkward mantel onto the shelf, then continue working up and left...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Sundown Ledge Add Comment
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By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 31, 2015
Every time I visit here I think "Wow, this place is f'n awesome. Easy parking, casual approach until the talus field and then it's only a few minutes of rock hopping to the cliff band, routes of all variety/difficulty, and some of the best sport climbing I've been on." Plenty of great trad lines as well. I'm always amazed when we have the area to ourselves on a busy weekend. :)

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