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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T,S 
Agronaut, The S 
Banana Head S 
Bete Noir T,S 
Big Papa T 
Big Rip, The S 
Bon Temps Rouler T 
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 
Dance Connection S 
Dikenstein S 
End of the Tether T 
Eyeless in Gaza S 
Frigid Relations S 
Mithras S 
Pastryworks S 
Promised Land, The S 
Razor Crack T 
Romper Room S 
Rough Boys T 
Sewer Rat  T 
Shadowline T 
She's Crafty S 
Stiletto T 
Sundog Delight  S 
Tar and Feather T 
Tits Out for the Lads T 
Vanishing Point S 
Vultures T 
Yellow Matter Custard S 

Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff  


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Location: 44.005, -71.2393 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 34,520
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Apr 17, 2007
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E-man climbs (then downclimbs and reclimbs) Dikens...

Description 

What if I were to tell you that a stellar sport cliff exists just outside the traditional stronghold of North Conway, New Hampshire? What if I said that this cliff offers high-quality bolted routes and that this cliff is decidedly different from Rumney? What if I said that this cliff saw the first emergence of "sport" ethics in New England and that one route actually sported a bolted-on gym hold. Would you believe me?

Probably not, and that is why Sundown Ledge is almost always deserted. Maybe it's because most climbers around North Conway set their sights on bigger and more grandiose objectives on Cathedral or Whitehorse. Maybe it's because the sport routes start at 5.11+ at Sundown where at Rumney, you can clip bolts on everything from 5.3 and up. At any rate, people seem to have forgotten about Sundown. Maybe it's a good thing that Sundown has faded from popularity because when the crowds get bad at Rumney, yet you still want that bolt-clipping fix, then Sundown is pretty much the perfect crag.

Plus, the sport climbs at Sundown are pretty slabby by modern standards and consist mostly of strenuous pulling on small edges up vertical or slightly overhanging walls. This place is no Orange Crush, that's for sure. While a few quality trad climbs exist, most notably the Henry Barber fingercrack testpiece Vultures (10d), it's the sport climbs that bring people to this quiet crag. Romper Room (12a) is the perfect little sport climb, and Eyeless in Gaza may very well be the best 12b in all of New England. Yellow Matter Custard (13a), The Argonaut (13a), and Pastryworks (13b) offer harder challenges for those who have maintained their dime-edge crimping technique that they cultivated in the eighties.

For a comprehensive look at Sundowns many crags, including the even lesser traveled outlying areas, Ed Webster's guidebook works well. The Rock Climbing New England guide lists the more popular routes at Sundown's main walls. Conway and North Conway, about ten miles away, hold every amenity imaginable.

Getting There 

All roads lead to the Kancamagus Highway, the scenic artery that cuts east/west across the state. On the eastern end, about ten miles west of Conway, you will see the Covered Bridge Campground on the north side of the road. Park on either side of the bridge in a lot (the bridge is closed in winter). Cross the river if you haven't already done so, and find the Boulder Loop, a heavily traveled hiking trail.

Set off on this trail and bear right (east) when you get to a fork. After about ten minutes, you should see the big cliff on your left. That's it. If you see a cairn, head up the talus to the base. If you miss the cairn, head up the talus to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

29 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',7],['5.12',12],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff:
Razor Crack   C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches   
Stiletto   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Rough Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Tits Out for the Lads   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Frigid Relations   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Shadowline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 50'   
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Vanishing Point   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff

Featured Route For Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Andrew pulls the roof on Romper Room.

Romper Room 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Romper Room is a top notch climb that I feel is on par with the more popular, Eyeless in Gaza. I guess all the first ascentionists reached the anchor at precisely the same moment, back when men were men. Approximately 10-15 feet of awkward, blocky but fun 5.6ish climbing leads to the first bolt and a stance. Clip the next bolt above your head and come back down to view the crux, a bouldery, balancy set of moves up to a small roof. Keep your balance for the third clip, pull over the roof, and enj...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
1:Police and Theives 5.12c 2:She's Crafty 5.12c 3:...
1:Police and Theives 5.12c 2:She's Crafty 5.12c 3:...
Muel taking a short and poor rest just before the ...
Muel taking a short and poor rest just before the ...
1:Vanishing Point 5.12d 2:Toothless grin 5.12a (to...
1:Vanishing Point 5.12d 2:Toothless grin 5.12a (to...
1: Dikenstein 5.11c 2:Glueless    5.14a
1: Dikenstein 5.11c 2:Glueless 5.14a
1:After the Fox 5.13c 2:Crank Case 5.11a 3:Midnigh...
1:After the Fox 5.13c 2:Crank Case 5.11a 3:Midnigh...
1:The Pastery Works     5.13b 2:yellow Matter Cust...
1:The Pastery Works 5.13b 2:yellow Matter Cust...
1.Flirting With Dikes 5.10d 2Eyeless in Gaza 5.12b...
1.Flirting With Dikes 5.10d 2Eyeless in Gaza 5.12b...
1:Big Papa 5.12d 2:Banannahead 5.13b 3:the big rip...
1:Big Papa 5.12d 2:Banannahead 5.13b 3:the big rip...
Main Cliff seen from Far Cliff
BETA PHOTO: Main Cliff seen from Far Cliff

Comments on Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 14, 2007
Getting there,
The road you pull off the highway from is only about 6.5 mi West of Rt 16 and the hiking trail goes up to the left as son and you see a substantial talus field running roughly parallel to the trail on your left.

Do Not take the marked hiking trail to "the ledges" it doesn't go to the climbs, it is for hikers.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 14, 2007
This cliff is AWESOME, I went there for the first time yesterday, what an amazing, cool looking and deserted place, ideal for getting away from Rumney gym rats.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 28, 2009
I would say that aside from Waimea, Sundown might be the best 5.12 sport cliff in all of New Hampshire. The Promised Land, Romper Room, The Big Rip (a few pieces needed), Eyeless in Gaza, and Mithras are all classic, interesting 5.12 routes that would be popular anywhere.
By S. Neoh
Oct 4, 2009
Is bete noire still a route being climbed at Sundown?
It has been more than 15 years since I last visited Sundown so my memory of it is rather sketchy. I think it might be by Big Banana. Difficulty is about 5.11a or 5.11b. I seem to remember it to be either fully or mostly bolted. Climbs face to slab to overhang, I think. I enjoyed the climb, though not as classic as Vultures or Romper Room.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 4, 2009
BÍte Noir has been getting climbed lately. I've seen a number of people on it, though I haven't climbed it myself. It looks pretty cool, maybe a bit slabby.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 4, 2009
I got out there and climbed it the other month. It feels like the cruxes of 3 different routes copied and pasted to make one weird but fun route. All the hard moves are bolt protected, but cams are needed as well.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 1, 2010
We need a nice overview topo for this cliff.
By Ben Dubs
Oct 3, 2014
Any topo for this sweet looking crag?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 3, 2014
Handren's 'North Conway" guide covers the crag pretty well (good topos). No overview yet, but you should be able to figure out the order of the subsection topos here on MP.