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Find and do the West Face route on the Matron and note the face just to it's right, going more or less up the center of the West Face (which actually faces SW and gets sun by 10am this time of year). Climb up this to a set of fixed anchors to the left. One can continue to the summit on West Face.
Rap via a 60m+ line to the West (CAREFUL!) or to the North, where a 60m and probably even a 50M would reach the ground.
You can TR this route from the anchors as for the West Face (minor swing potential) or you can "lead" it.This route has been refered to as 'S' in print, but I believe it is 'VS.' Aside of a few medium nuts and then a large nut or a solid tricam 20-30 feet up, most of the rest of the route, including the insecure crux, is exposed to ground fall potential. Perhaps some great amount of wandering about could have lead me to find potential gear placements, but I did the route on TR and I liked it just fine that way, since it appeared very much that a lead was the equivalent of a solo.
Jun 17, 2007
Here's the real story on this climb: I climbed it as a "guide" with a cool guy named Kerry Schroyer, who wanted to do a new route. This was 1979 or 80. I had done the West face before and noticed the nice face out to the right. Kerry and I went up there and I just started up the middle of the face on challenging but not really hard climbing with good rock. Quite a ways up, about 20' below the little roof I found a place for a wired stopper or something, then climbed directly through the apex of the roof and engineered a belay a bit higher. I didn't traverse over to the belay on the west face, as was suggested. Kerry followed no problem, then I climbed up and left to climb through the blocky roof to add a second pitch. The x in Sunday Comix is a tongue-in-cheek attempt at humor in naming the route. Obviously, since this was the first route to climb the center of the slab, predating all the others, and since it goes all the way up the middle and adds the top pitch through the roof, it should be recognised as the main line on the face.