Sundance  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Jim McCarthy and John Rupley, 1954 Submitted By:  JSH on Feb 13, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Sundance and its neighbor Moondance are two genuinely enjoyable routes on beautiful tight-white rock. They're relatively high on the cliff, at what can be a sunny warm spot on a calm winter day. And because they're fairly far down the cliff, you'll likely have them to yourself.

Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, until you're forced to step right around some trees. You should be at the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.

P1: Step easily up ledges to a large tree in front of a blocky left-facing corner. 5.6, fun and easy but no pro.

P2: Make a big move or two to gain the rock behind the tree, then keep climbing up and right, finding the line of least resistance, to the cliff top.

P1 and P2 can be easily combined.

Rappel from a tree at the cliff top. It's possible to toprope the face to the right of the route, at about the same grade and enjoyability.

Protection 

Standard rack.