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k. The Slime Wall
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Golden Showers T 
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Moondance T 
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Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 

Sundance 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Rupley, 1954
Page Views: 949
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Sundance and its neighbor Moondance are two genuinely enjoyable routes on beautiful tight-white rock. They're relatively high on the cliff, at what can be a sunny warm spot on a calm winter day. And because they're fairly far down the cliff, you'll likely have them to yourself.

Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, almost to its top, until you can take a short trail to the right away from the cliff. It should take you to the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.

P1: Climb up the easy face straight up to a tree with rappel slings; may not have as much protection as you'd like (5.3).

P2: From 10' or so right of the belay, make a big move or two leftwards to gain the face (you can also climb the corner/arete behind the belay, then traverse right). Keep climbing up and right under an overlap, and step up over it once you must. Move back left and up to gain a ledge with a small pine, then head up the white rock above, finishing on the left of two crack systems to the cliff top. Lots of finger-sized gear.

P1 and P2 can be combined, with attention to rope drag.

Rappel from a tree at the cliff top (2x 60m). It's possible to toprope the face to the right of the route, at about the same grade and enjoyability.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Aug 25, 2011

There is also a great place at the top to lounge around and enjoy the view.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 20, 2013

If you look at Williams' and Swain's guidebooks these routes are distinctly different. They do not start at the same place. I've climbed here a couple of times and I suspect that I, and probably others, start up Sundance and finish up Moondance. I'm on something because there are pitons that I follow. Not that it matters, it is a fun romp away from the crowds and a great place to have lunch under the pine tree on top.
By JSH
Administrator
Aug 20, 2013

Brian, you're right, and I think I remember that way long ago the first time I climbed there, we did climb a separate first pitch to the right (traversing from the pedastal, maybe?). Then on subsequent visits, the face to the right looked like it had more lichen then protection. I'll take a look at the books and try to straighten it out.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 18, 2013

This is quite a nice route and I'd like to clear up a few things about the description. The route starts with 40 feet of very easy (5.3) climbing up to an obvious ledge with a pine tree and rap anchor. The description says there is no pro, but in fact the protection is just fine.

Here are more details for the second pitch: climb up the left-facing blocks directly behind the pine, then traverse right a few feet and go up over a steep bulge. You should now be below an obvious, shallow, right-facing, right-angling corner-thingy (yeah, I know that sounds goofy, but hey, that's what it is). The description says to just wander up this to the right and to the top, but I don't think that is the correct, or most aesthetic way. Climb up and right along the corner thingy with good pro for about 15 feet. When you reach a good piton, go straight left about 6 feet and up and over a little bulge (crux). From there, go straight up, then step right to a little ledge with a right-facing corner and old ring piton (and now, how convenient, a good fixed wire). Instead of going straight up (which seems obvious but is harder than it looks), go left 5 feet and then up to the obvious tree at the top.

If you do this climb in one pitch, as we did, be very careful to sling things properly to avoid rope drag---it's longer and more wandering than it appears. Ending the first pitch at the pine after the easy face is probably wise. Note, you would probably need two ropes to rap this climb. If you only have one, wander straight back from the belay tree for 100 feet or so, pick your scramble over an easy little wall to the crest of the ridge, then walk right (toward Sky Top) for maybe 300 feet to the top of a 4th class descent gully on the right marked with a cairn. You may need to rap one short scrambly bit in the gully.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 22, 2013

Brian -- my Black Dick says there's a distinct pitch for Moondance, and that the straight-up romp is Sundance.

Peter - thanks for the additions. I originally under-described the pitch on purpose, in the spirit of adventuring, this much further down the cliff.
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Oct 2, 2013

This is a really pleasant route, with a lot of nice climbing. The climbing I'd say is slightly more challenging and interesting than Moondance, and the gear, while fine, is a little more spaced in spots than on Moondance, so if you're a budding leader, you might want to warm up on Moondance first.

We avoided the tree and diagonaled right from the initial face onto the face above the ledge. The tree would add some drag if you clipped it.

Also, you may want a couple of smallish wires (not micro, just small) for the little seam at the top, which was the crux of the route, I thought.
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 2, 2014

I climbed this again yesterday. The Williams book photos show two lines for two 1st pitches, but the left version is lichened over and long gone; there is effectively one first pitch for both Sundance and Moondance from the pedestal. I added a bit more detail to the route description for P2.