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Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Verena Frymann
Page Views: 3,182
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

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S Face of Devils Tower

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Same start as Wiessner. Climb up up right then left to the base of two broken columns. Climb the left-side of the lower column, then the left-hand crack to the top of a column with a bush and belay.
Climb the jamcrack above.
Finish with "Durrance" or another variation.


Pro to 5".

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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crack protects very well. A good alternative to Durrance for those with experience.
By Joy S
Feb 25, 2011

Verena Frymann (from the first ascent) was my mother. She died three days ago. Now it can be told... they did the climb thinking it was the standard Wiessner crack. Later, as they drove to another site, Dave Rearick (as she remembers it) was studying the description, with Bob driving (or maybe the other way around.) "Turn this thing around!" he said. "We did the wrong climb!" So they pulled a U turn and went back to do the right climb, and to properly describe and lay claim to the new route.

For anything but historical purposes, I suppose the only take home is, "easy spot to get confused, but there are a lot of good alternatives."

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