The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Nearly 1000 feet high, the best cliff (along with the Book) at Lumpy Ridge, but because of the long approach it sees relatively little traffic. Classics of all grades and types of climbing, including Kor's Flake (5.7), Mainliner (5.9), Turnkorner (5.10a), and Whiteman (5.11). To descend from all but the west-most routes, scramble along the top to a steep fourth-class gully that leads NE. The gully begins at the saddle between the Turnkorner Buttress (the steep, rounded section of cliff most visible on the approach) and the Guillotine Wall, an immense section of cliff which is not visible for most of the approach, but which can be seen clearly divided from the Turnkorner Buttress by a prominent chimney system when one stands in front of the rock. Downclimb the gully very carefully, or make several rappels from trees. Then follow the steep, brushy hillside (really a larger gully) around to the base of the rock.
Sundance is the western most formation on the ridge; hike west from the new parking lot ~0.6 miles to the Black Canyon trail from the old Twins Owls parking lot past the Book turnoff, through the cow fence, into the woods, and then keep a sharp lookout for a cairn marking the approach path on the right side of the trail (there is no sign). If you miss it, you'll be faced with a nauseating bushwhack straight uphill. Expect 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.
A 5.7 route of this length and quality is difficult to find. Hard, sustained, and exposed for the grade. Hike up west past the large overhang of Turnkorner Buttress to a point shortly beyond the deep chimney separating it from the Guillotine wall. Scramble up onto an outcrop below a deep, narrow chimney with some loose rock and a large chockstone about 30 feet up. P1 - squeeze up the chimney, go right under the chockstone, and emerge to climb moderate rock for about 50 feet to a belay ledge....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I know this is a bit off-topic, so I'm posting it as a temporary "condition report". I have a post in the Colorado forum to see if anyone has climbed the route "In the Rough" as described in the Gillett guide? It's all the way on the right/east side of Sundance. Appreciate any comments. Here's the link:
There is not a pebble at Lumpy Ridge not worth climbing. The rock is superb, especially the Sundance Buttress. A mostly flat trail through a beautiful valley to some of the biggest rocks and highest quality granite in the state might be too much if one is accustomed to pulling plastic. Some climbers climb for the absolute love of it. Some climbers climb because they think it makes them look cool. Lumpy is for the former.
Headlamps are useful if you ever have to come down in the dark.
An easy descent if climbing anything from Grapevine and to the left: walk easily to the summit of Sundance and go to the east, drop down slabs between opposing corners for maybe 50 feet and spot a rappel from a tree to the climber's left. Rap 100 feet to the ground, then downclimb a short 10' wall to the trail. Follow trail until it peters out in a boulder field. Boulder hop for a ways and pick up trail again, following it until it wraps around the bottom of Sundance and meets up with the approach trail.
The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up.Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it.
The trail to Sundance, and the climbers' descent route (can't call it a trail) in that godawful gully, were the projects for the Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag Day this October. Fifty-some logs and eighty-some rock steps went in, along with some long-needed "barbering" of the brush in the gully. Should be a lot better.
If you're a first-time visitor to Sundance, be advised that there's now a sign to direct you in lieu of the old cairn. It's actually been there for several years now.
Good luck finding solid RPs on the main pitch/seam of Cirque de Soleil? A few bolts past the anchor into the seam - I couldn't find anything that would hold and ended up punching it to the bolts.
When I asked Mike Caldwell about it later, he mentioned getting in a slider nut and 1 offset. We talked about adding some bolts at that time, as w/out sliders it makes a sewn-up climb (bolted/good gear) pretty solid "R" rating?
Let me know if I am missing something on the gear on that second (crux) pitch. I was psyched to onsight it soon after the FA.
JS said: "The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up. Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it."
FYI - in 2001 I started replacing these bolts (smashed hangers) by hand drilling and I think Mike Caldwell replaced some of the anchors? I never finished the project, but it would be great to see this masterpiece returned back to its original state.
Hey Eli, I was wondering if you were ever on Bosch Cassidy while the bolts were still in. I never was, but I spent a little time toproping on it and became convinced it should be ressurected. Nate and I replaced 2 or 3 bolts around 2005. One around the middle of pitch 1 and 1 or 2 towards the top. We had a hard time finding where the old bolts had been though. Just curious if you may have additional knowledge of their previous locations. We should get that thing reequipped this summer. Stellar climbing.
I think I got the second or third or fourth ascent of this great line right after a 16 year old Topher legally drilled this on lead. It is a great line that was chopped by some idiot. I am all for rebolting this incredible rock climb. Look for natural stances, the idiot who chopped this used a crowbar and ripped out big chunks of rock, so it should be fairly obvious were the bolts were. I would be glad to come up and do a little Fred Flinstone action to get this climb revived. If you have any ?, just ask Topher, he will tell ya were those bolt were.
I'd be keen to help find the bolt placements and help with the replacement of Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. If you Estes crew decide to get together some monkeys with hand drills, let me know. Likely the best multi-pitch sport climb in the Front Range....