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BETA PHOTO: View from the top of Sunburst
Before the MN/WI guidebook came out this route was simply called "Everybody's First Lead", and for good reason. With time and all the kicking sticky-rubber feet, the route has become slick and polished. Go around the corner from the spraypainted flag to the right, this route is to the right of Left Lane, and goes up the arete and face. Memorable only in that it probably was your first lead. Right?
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
Doesn't do the view justice, but the route has a G...
|By josh wabaunsee|
Jul 1, 2007
lots of big stuff falls outta here on a regular basis, just look at all of the microwave sized blocks around the base...stay away
|By Eric Friday|
Apr 5, 2009
There are a lot of polished holds on this route, but it has a few fun movies. Lots of nasty falls for the beginning leader mixed with polished holds makes this route less than desirable. Locking 'biners at the top are starting to get really worn (Apr. 09).
|By Genghis Philip|
Aug 1, 2010
Harder than 5.7, and ugly. So worn and destroyed that it must be a different climb than it used to be. Dirty, sketchy moves. Scrambling necessary over the slabby part of the arette. The protection's actually alright, though, so that's something.
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Aug 9, 2010
This really isn't as bad as everyone says. Yes, it probably goes a bit harder than a 5.7 now that the feet have gotten polished but I wouldn't give it a "bomb" rating.
I set this up as a top rope last week and none of the 4 or 5 people that top roped it (on my gear) after me complained about the route.
This really isn't a great first lead anymore, but still worth climbing.
Nov 9, 2010
I agree with Sonnabend. I lead this a couple days ago (my second outdoor lead ever) and although it's definitely slick, in the grand scheme of things, it's not that bad. Even where it's polished there's usually at least one good handhold or a big ledge for your feet, and all of the clipping stances felt really solid. However, on the day I climbed it was a perfectly sunny day with mild temps and the crag was very dry; I'm sure that more adverse conditions would make this feel a lot more sketchy. Also, I'm 6'1" so shorter climbers may have a different experience.
I would also agree that the rating is now probably more like 5.7+. If you're looking for your first lead, go around the corner for Cinq Jour, or head over to Jenna's Chimney, and come back to this one when you're ready for a bit more of a mental challenge.
|By James Anderson|
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Apr 24, 2011
Lead this for the first time today, definitely the most polished route I've done. First three clips slippery but a bit better at the end when it gets harder.