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If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Two Legged Snake 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Pat Ewing 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Scotty Pippen 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Black Out 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Aerospace Cadet 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Irish Jig 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
I am in the process of adding some routes that I have seen reported with some FA inaccuracies in the newest Selected Climbs of North Carolina guide book. "Titties and Beer" is an example of this. The Shull/Lambert guide reports Randy Mann was on the FA of this route when it was actually Ted Anderson who was on the FA. It is important to recognize Ted as the name for this route was inspired by Ted and comes from a Zappa song. Ted Anderson is a huge Zappa fan and we listened to a lot of Zappa when...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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