Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.
If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
Climbing Season For the Looking Glass Rock area.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Pat Ewing 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Irish Jig 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c NC
: Looking Glass Rock
: Sun Wall
Much steeper than it looks; the pump is good the moves are better! The route climbs up and left through steep eyebrows with good pro and a couple of bolts to ease the mind. The crux comes after the second bolt. After these moves you head out right to the anchors of Out To Lunch....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: western NC
Jan 20, 2015
Just a note: I recently changed out the rap hangers above Irish Jig with a set of my own (quicklink-ring combo) to facilitate a better rope pull, as well as to keep the hangers from getting all wonky (like they have been).
The new set that should pull easier.