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 ADVANCED
Sun Wall

Select Route:
Aerospace Cadet T 
Black Out T 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 
Irish Jig T 
Labia T 
Le Pump T,S 
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 
Nick Danger T 
Odyssey, The T 
Out To Lunch T 
Pat Ewing T 
Predator T,S 
Ruby Tuesday T 
Scotty Pippen T 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 
Two Legged Snake T 

Sun Wall  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.

Description 

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Two Legged Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ruby Tuesday   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Pat Ewing   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Scotty Pippen   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Nick Danger   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Irish Jig   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Out To Lunch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 80'   
Aerospace Cadet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
The Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Le Pump   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Labia   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Predator   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
Topo

Scotty Pippen 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
A var. of Patrick Ewing.Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack.Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Compliments of a co-worker
Compliments of a co-worker
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right...
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right...
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Mon...
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Mon...
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing ...
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing ...

Comments on Sun Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 20, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
Just a note: I recently changed out the rap hangers above Irish Jig with a set of my own (quicklink-ring combo) to facilitate a better rope pull, as well as to keep the hangers from getting all wonky (like they have been).
The new set that should pull easier.
The new set that should pull easier.