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Sun Wall

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Aerospace Cadet 
Black Out 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
Irish Jig 
Labia 
Le Pump 
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The 
Nick Danger 
Odyssey, The 
Out To Lunch 
Pat Ewing 
Predator 
Ruby Tuesday 
Scotty Pippen 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 
Two Legged Snake 

Sun Wall 


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Page Views: 19,937
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.
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Description 

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Two Legged Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Nick Danger   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Ruby Tuesday   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Scotty Pippen   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Aerospace Cadet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Out To Lunch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 80'   
The Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Le Pump   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Labia   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Predator   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
On the first pitch of Nick Danger 5.10, on the Sun Wall. Belayed by Scott McCook.  <br />Photo by Jimmy Walker <br />1984

Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.P1, 5.10a. Spicy moves lead to a pin and a bolt. Trend up and right on "eyebrows" to a deep horizontal 15" below a bulge system and belay on 1 to 2" gear. 100" (or link P1 and P2).P2, 5.10. Crank straight off the belay into the bulge system with a #1 camalot for pro. Pull the bulge with a sloper or two to great incuts and great pro. Fight the pump and head for stacked pins. As the angle changes slab up to hori...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Compliments of a co-worker
Compliments of a co-worker
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right of center.
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right...
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Monty Reagan who was on FA.
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Mon...
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing smooth as always 1987.
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing ...
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