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If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Two Legged Snake 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Scotty Pippen 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Aerospace Cadet 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
The best water groove ever. With TCU's (which they didn't have on the first ascent) the route may or may not deserve a solid R rating depending on how brittle your bones are / how lucky you are, but for all the cruxes you are a above your pro making for commiting climbing. The final crux bulge is a potential ankle breaker due to the fall onto a 65 or 70 degree slab from a vertical bulge when your feet are about 6 feet above gear.P1: Climb steep groove past numerous horizontals to an easy roof, t...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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