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DescriptionIf you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level. Getting ThereFrom the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet
Two Legged Snake 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade II
Pat Ewing 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Scotty Pippen 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Nick Danger 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Black Out 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Irish Jig 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Aerospace Cadet 5.10d Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Out To Lunch 5.10d Trad, 5 pitches, 80 feet
The Odyssey 5.11- Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 5.11b R Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet
Le Pump 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Labia 5.11+ Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Predator 5.12+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 5.12c/d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Featured Route For Sun Wall
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