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Sun Wall

Select Route:
Aerospace Cadet T 
Black Out T 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 
Irish Jig T 
Labia T 
Le Pump T,S 
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 
Nick Danger T 
Odyssey, The T 
Out To Lunch T 
Pat Ewing T 
Predator T,S 
Ruby Tuesday T 
Scotty Pippen T 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 
Two Legged Snake T 

Sun Wall  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.

Description 

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Two Legged Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Nick Danger   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Ruby Tuesday   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Pat Ewing   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Scotty Pippen   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Aerospace Cadet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Out To Lunch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 80'   
The Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   
Le Pump   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Labia   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Predator   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
Pitch 1 crack section

Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Great crack climbing up a steep wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Compliments of a co-worker
Compliments of a co-worker
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right of center.
Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right...
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Monty Reagan who was on FA.
Jeff Lauschey leading Way Rad 1987, belayed by Mon...
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing smooth as always 1987.
Jeff Lauschey getting it done on Way Rad climbing ...

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