Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.
If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Wall:
Ruby Tuesday 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Pat Ewing 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Nick Danger 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Irish Jig 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Out To Lunch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 5 pitches, 80'
The Odyssey 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Le Pump 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Labia 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Predator 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Wall
Scotty Pippen 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b NC
: Looking Glass Rock
: Sun Wall
A var. of Patrick Ewing.Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack.Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
From: western NC
Jan 20, 2015
Just a note: I recently changed out the rap hangers above Irish Jig with a set of my own (quicklink-ring combo) to facilitate a better rope pull, as well as to keep the hangers from getting all wonky (like they have been).
The new set that should pull easier.