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Sun Wall
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Select Route:
Aerospace Cadet 
Black Out 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
Irish Jig 
Labia 
Le Pump 
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The 
Nick Danger 
Odyssey, The 
Out To Lunch 
Pat Ewing 
Predator 
Ruby Tuesday 
Scotty Pippen 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 
Two Legged Snake 

Sun Wall 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009

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Photo compliments of a fellow co-worker.

Description 

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet   
Two Legged Snake   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Ruby Tuesday   5.10 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade II   
Pat Ewing   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
Scotty Pippen   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Nick Danger   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
Black Out   5.10+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Irish Jig   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Aerospace Cadet   5.10d     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Out To Lunch   5.10d     Trad, 5 pitches, 80 feet   
The Odyssey   5.11-     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet   
Le Pump   5.11     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Labia   5.11+     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Predator   5.12+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
Pitch 1 crack section

Out To Lunch 5.10d  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Great crack climbing up a steep wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.

photo complimente of a fellow co-worker.

Compliments of a co-worker

Compliments of a co-worker

Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right of center.

Hyperbola on the left and Odyssey & The Bomb right...

Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?

Buddy Price on Way-Rad sometime in mid 80tys 1987?