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Select Route:
Abandoned Ship 
Ale 81 
Burly Girls 
Crack in the Sky 
Curly 
Disneyland 
Dreamscape 
Glasstic 
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! 
Knob Wall 
Land of Silk and Money 
Larry 
Lichen This 
Lip Service 
Liquid Spirit 
Midget Digits 
Misty 
Moe 
Muffins are Burning 
Nick of Time 
Nothingness 
Pop Tarts 
Popular Science (Golden Flake) 
Pressure Sensitive 
Pretty Vacant 
Silent Lucidity 
Sneakers 
Super Grover 
Tarzan 
Wall of Horns 
White Gold 
Windows 

Sun Wall 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 6, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Thunderstorm
79° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
82° | 63°
Partly Cloudy
88° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
84° | 63°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 61°

Leading Misty. Photo by Frank N.

Description 

With its southern exposure, the aptly-named Sun Wall is a great place to climb in the winter (and to be avoided in the hot summer months). This cliffline runs parallel to the road into Sand Rock, and in many places you'll see roadside campsites across the way after topping out. The wall is actually a series of free-standing towers detached from the main wall; in many places, the gap is narrow enough to jump across and hike back down to the trail.

The Sun Wall is best known for great sport routes like Misty, but there's also a number of fine trad lines here as well. It's also a good place to get away from the crowds at the Pinnacle and Holiday Block.


Getting There 

From the parking lot, cut left before heading to the Pinnacle/Holiday block areas; follow a trail down the hill and to the left until you reach the base of the cliff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Wall:
Knob Wall   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Windows   5.8+ X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Moe   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Popular Science (Golden Flake)   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
White Gold   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Sneakers   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Wall of Horns   5.10b/c R     TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Muffins are Burning   5.10c     Sport, 30 feet   
Misty   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Disneyland   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Midget Digits   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Pressure Sensitive   5.11c     Sport, 70 feet   
Dreamscape   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Super Grover   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sun Wall

Featured Route For Sun Wall
TR is on Popular Science, leader is on Ale 81, Sandrock, AL

Popular Science (Golden Flake) 5.9+  AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall
Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in AL


Photos of Sun Wall Slideshow Add Photo
SANDBURGER

SANDBURGER

A busy day at Sun Wall

A busy day at Sun Wall

Bocephus area

Bocephus area


Comments on Sun Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Mar 5, 2007

Much of this wall is bone dry on really wet days. Shockingly dry. Worth the drive when you just know everything else will be wet dry.

By Siberia
From: Birmingham, AL
Aug 21, 2012

When walking from the Sandtrap towards Larry/Moe/Curly there is a small trail that goes down hill to the right. It almost looks like water runoff. Take the right then the trail forks and go left. There's a 40 foot face that has five routes with anchors. From left to right they are probably 7/8?..7..6..9..11-. I only climbed the first 7/8,6, and 9. Some guys were working the harder route and said it was 11b.

It's a great spot for some first sport leads. The routes are short, well protected, close to each other.

The first 7/8? has a dead point/dyno to a jug at the top to clip the anchors from. A very dirty crack may provide an alternative but the big move is fun.

Second rotue from left I didn't climb. From the look of it I'd guess a 7.

The 6? goes up a corner with huge buckets.

The 9+? that is to the right of the big crack is thin with good moves all the way up. Higher up you can move a bit left to big jugs but it seems off route. A two finger half pad left hand gives you a high clip unles you move left to the jugs.

The 11b? looks interesting with a low crux, some creative sidepulls, and good footwork. Stick clip needed for this one.