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Sun Wall Right 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Smith and ?, 1980s
Season: any time the temps are cool/warm enough to climb a south facing wall
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009
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A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.


As the name implies, right-most route on Sun Wall. A yawning wide chimney marks the start.


Large variety of pro required. Depending on your comfort with chimneys, a #4-5 might be wanted...or might prove totally unnecessary for you. The final 15' appear to be protectable only with Big Bros or Valley Giants; however, fairly secure squeeze chimneying can be executed with no pro. Rap anchors at top. Can be toproped by scrambling up 4th/5th class to the west of Sun Wall and moving over to the fixed anchors at the top.

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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 17, 2009

My nickname for this route is 'Scary Airy.' :)

By Milton Mugambe
Dec 21, 2009

It good... yum-yum

By Milton Mugambe
May 14, 2010

Three out of four stars fer sur, clean and even polished in spots, classic chimney work. Milt