Sun Wall Right  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Jay Smith and ?, 1980s Season:  any time the temps are cool/warm enough to climb a south facing wall Submitted By:  Aerili on Aug 17, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.

Location 

As the name implies, right-most route on Sun Wall. A yawning wide chimney marks the start.

Protection 

Large variety of pro required. Depending on your comfort with chimneys, a #4-5 might be wanted...or might prove totally unnecessary for you. The final 15' appear to be protectable only with Big Bros or Valley Giants; however, fairly secure squeeze chimneying can be executed with no pro. Rap anchors at top. Can be toproped by scrambling up 4th/5th class to the west of Sun Wall and moving over to the fixed anchors at the top.