Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
8 - Sun Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
First Crux T 
Sun Wall Left T,TR 
Sun Wall Middle T 
Sun Wall Right T,TR 

Sun Wall Right 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Smith and ?, 1980s
Season: any time the temps are cool/warm enough to climb a south facing wall
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.


As the name implies, right-most route on Sun Wall. A yawning wide chimney marks the start.


Large variety of pro required. Depending on your comfort with chimneys, a #4-5 might be wanted...or might prove totally unnecessary for you. The final 15' appear to be protectable only with Big Bros or Valley Giants; however, fairly secure squeeze chimneying can be executed with no pro. Rap anchors at top. Can be toproped by scrambling up 4th/5th class to the west of Sun Wall and moving over to the fixed anchors at the top.

Comments on Sun Wall Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 17, 2009

My nickname for this route is 'Scary Airy.' :)
By Milton Mugambe
Dec 21, 2009

It good... yum-yum
By Milton Mugambe
May 14, 2010

Three out of four stars fer sur, clean and even polished in spots, classic chimney work. Milt

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!