Sun Wall Right
||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Jay Smith and ?, 1980s|
|Season: ||any time the temps are cool/warm enough to climb a south facing wall|
|Page Views: ||673|
|Submitted By: ||Aerili on Aug 17, 2009|
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A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.
As the name implies, right-most route on Sun Wall. A yawning wide chimney marks the start.
Large variety of pro required. Depending on your comfort with chimneys, a #4-5 might be wanted...or might prove totally unnecessary for you. The final 15' appear to be protectable only with Big Bros or Valley Giants; however, fairly secure squeeze chimneying can be executed with no pro. Rap anchors at top. Can be toproped by scrambling up 4th/5th class to the west of Sun Wall and moving over to the fixed anchors at the top.
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 17, 2009
My nickname for this route is 'Scary Airy.' :)
By Milton Mugambe
May 14, 2010
Three out of four stars fer sur, clean and even polished in spots, classic chimney work. Milt