Sun Wall Left 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | urs on Jul 24, 2009 |
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Me starting up on the interesting offwidth section...
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Description This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!!
There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are:
1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack
2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.
Location This route is located around the corner to right of The Perfect Lyeback 5.8.
Protection A standard rack from nuts, tcu's, and friends to 3 inchs should do fine and there is a bolted anchor with open cold shuts at the top.
Me about to reach the ledge where the left travers...
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Starting up the crux finger crack. The steepness o...
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Karl battling out the crux.
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| Comments on Sun Wall Left |
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By Ryan Curry
Aug 28, 2009
| The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades.
One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic. |
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 18, 2010
| This is a great route, solid for the grade, and requiring many climbing techniques to reach the anchors. Jay Smith had a visionary eye for great routes. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 13, 2010
| Right up there with One of These Days on the South side of the canyon in terms of quality and variety. Well, it's shorter. And, well, some rock broke off. But, damnit, I love this climb!
I'd recommend the right, direct start. The left start is comparable as far as difficulty, but the protection doesn't look as inspiring. It was fun to TR the left variation though.
Bring a #5 camalot (new) for the direct. |
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Absolutely classic and quite stiff. Did the left hand variation, bring #4's. |
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 22, 2013
| Did the left hand variation. The hardest move comes right before the ledge, with the last obvious pro well below your feet. Had to move in some uncommon ways to make it work, but it was great! |
By Peter Valchev
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.10+
| My favorite climb so far at Woodfords.. a mix of everything. Do the direct (wide) start. Don't need anything bigger than one #3, one #2 and otherwise small stuff. |
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