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The Sun Tower Formations are located on the north side of the canyon at the far (southwest) end of the main climbing area. The towers have a number of excellent moderate routes (mostly trad) established by Bob and Lisa Eakle. The two towers are separated by a deep notch. Routes on the Lower Tower are generally one pitch, while the upper tower boasts two three-pitch routes that lead to the top of the canyon. Most of the climbs on the Lower Tower are equipped with rap anchors, while the descent off the upper tower is an easy walk off with a little scrambling. All of the routes we climbed were high quality, thoughtful routes on great rock. Receives plenty of sunlight until the evening hours.
The Sun Tower Formations are on private land, so please respect the area around them. To reach the Towers, park in a pull out about a quarter mile east of mile marker 135 adjacent to a drive way. There is a trail just to the (right?) side of the driveway that leads up to the crags. (The sign next to the trail asks climbers to remain on the trail to the base of the crags.) Follow the trail behind the house and up to the Lower Tower where you'll be just below the bolts on Sunup. To reach the Upper Tower, follow the carined trail through a talus slope to the notch between the two towers. Approach time is 10-15 minutes to the Lower Tower and 20 minutes to the Upper Tower.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Towers:
Crack of Don 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Dovercourt 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sunup 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Sun Towers
The Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R CO : Grand Junction area : ... : Sun Towers
P1: Find the super sick looking, hands splitter in between Claret Cup Crack and Betty and Ray's Adventure. Traverse into the splitter from the left using a finger crack (5.9). Once in the splitter enjoy classic 5.8 hands for 30 feet. You could keep keep going but might want to belay at the big ledge to have your belayer close for the sketchy face section.P2: Walk left 20+ feet crossing Betty and Ray's... and begin up a steep face in the center. Trend left f...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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