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Sun Spots T,S 

Sun Spots 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Seen from the road, Sun Spots sits on the right si...

Description 

This route is not for the typical 5.9/5.10 climber. The B1 start is very hard and is even hard to cheat past without some sort of etrier setup. Once past the initial start though, the climb looks fun, climbing on lower angle face. Until the bolts are replaced though, I would tend to give this route an s rating as these bolts may not take a fall of any substantial length. The photo clearly shows the boulder problem start and the rest of the climb.

Protection 

Although this B1 start spanked me badly, I think it's worth entering this route and describe it's current protection status. There are 4 or 5 old, rusted, 1/4" bolts (with possibly some trad pro between 2nd and 3rd) but I was very nervous simply hanging on the first one that I didn't dare even try to cheat past the first bolt to continue on. I don't know what anchors there are on top but by looking at the rest of the route, I imagine the bolts, if they exist, are old also. A very good chance there would be trad gear placements though... Definitely a good candidate for bolt replacements.


Photos of Sun Spots Slideshow Add Photo
A closer view of Sun Spots shows the B1 difficult start and the rest of the nice looking face climb.
A closer view of Sun Spots shows the B1 difficult ...
This photo shows the approximate route up Sun Spots.
This photo shows the approximate route up Sun Spot...

Comments on Sun Spots Add Comment
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 5, 2006

The 1/4 bolts are still there, and after soloing The Black Hole, I went up for a look see for anchors. I didn't see any. I did see some old webbing hanging around a large mazanita bush up top and a LONG way from the final bolt, though the top didn't look very difficult. So - if you want to set up a top rope, bring some sacrifical webbing and a 20'+ sling and climb the chimney to the left.
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

JMO---This route seemed pretty lame to me...not much opportunity for pro, either. Like Paul sez, the B1 start is ugg.

Barely even a candidate for 1/1 replacement. Do yourself a favor and do "Moonshadow" or any other route nearby.
By Reuben Shelton
Sep 10, 2009

This climb now has 3/8" bolts (bring a green alien or equivalent for horizontal crack between 2nd and 3rd bolts) and a proper bolted anchor, the start however is still heinous
By Lurker
Mar 13, 2012

Just yard through the first bolt, otherwise makes for a mellow warm-up. Blue TCU works well for the horizontal.