2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.
The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.
Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.
Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.
Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.
The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.
Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb.
I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.