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Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.
The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.
Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.
Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.
Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.
The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.
|By Justin Deal|
From: Denver, CO
Dec 25, 2010
Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb.
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 26, 2012
I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1.