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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
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A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Sun Spot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck, 1975. Bolts: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 2/6/09
Page Views: 2,558
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2009
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Description 

Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.

The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.

Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.


Location 

Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.


Protection 

Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.



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By Justin Deal
From: Denver, CO
Dec 25, 2010

Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 26, 2012

I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish.

Prod.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Nov 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1.

By James Hicks
From: Denver, CO
Jan 20, 2014

I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway.