Sun Devil Wall Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||35.80568, -106.14055 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||3,944|
|Administrators: ||DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Sun Devil Wall
This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.
Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.
This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.
Climbing Season For the Diablo Canyon area.
Weather station 6.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Devil Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Devil Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Devil Wall:
Heat Seeker 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Sun Devil 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Suntoucher 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 4 pitches
Astro Devil 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Seventh Sun 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Featured Route For Sun Devil Wall
Icarus 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Sun Devil Wall
A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route. First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Close-up topo of Sun Devil Crag
BETA PHOTO: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil 3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...
BETA PHOTO: SunDevil is #2.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008
Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 4, 2013
Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.
Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 10, 2015
A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10)