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Sun Devil Wall

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Appendicitis S 
Astro Devil S 
Heat Seeker S 
Icarus S 
Suicidal Society S 
Sun Devil S 
Sun Devil Crack T 
Suntoucher S 

Sun Devil Wall  


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Elevation: 5,000'
Page Views: 9,001
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
Forecast:
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Clear
46° | 18°
Clear
42° | 16°
Clear
41° | 21°
Clear
52° | 27°
Clear
58° | 29°
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BETA PHOTO: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil 3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...

Description 

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.


Getting There 

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Devil Wall:
Appendicitis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Heat Seeker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Sun Devil   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Suntoucher   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Astro Devil   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Classics in Sun Devil Wall

Featured Route For Sun Devil Wall
Pitch 2 of Astro Devil

Astro Devil 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Sun Devil Wall
The first pitch starts on the right-most side of the Solar Cave and heads up some awkward and steep rock through multiple tricky moves. At the 5th bolt, it begins to trend up and right to eventually reach the Sun Devil ledge system right below the Astro Devil face that shares space with the first anchor of Sun Devil. From here, one elegant pitch followed by one wild pitch take you to the top-out. Descend by 3 rappels, the last being a rope stretcher for a 60m, so be careful. You can also ea...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sun Devil Wall Slideshow Add Photo
SunDevil is #2.
BETA PHOTO: SunDevil is #2.

Comments on Sun Devil Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008
Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 4, 2013
Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.

Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow.