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Sun Devil Wall

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Appendicitis 
Astro Devil 
Heat Seeker 
Icarus 
Suicidal Society 
Sun Devil 
Sun Devil Crack 
Suntoucher 

Sun Devil Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Page Views: 7,836
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: 1-Sun DevilCrack
2-Sun Devil
3-Astro Devil
4-Sun ...

Description 

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.


Getting There 

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Devil Wall:
Appendicitis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Heat Seeker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Sun Devil   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Suntoucher   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Astro Devil   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Classics in Sun Devil Wall

Featured Route For Sun Devil Wall
Aaron on "Icarus"

Icarus 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Sun Devil Wall
A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route. First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sun Devil Wall Slideshow Add Photo
SunDevil is #2.
BETA PHOTO: SunDevil is #2.
Comments on Sun Devil Wall Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008

Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.

By Aaron Miller
Jan 4, 2013

Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.

Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow.