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Sun Devil Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appendicitis S 
Astro Devil S 
Heat Seeker S 
Icarus S 
Seventh Sun S 
Suicidal Society S 
Sun Devil S 
Sun Devil Crack T 
Suntoucher S 

Sun Devil Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 35.80568, -106.14055 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,196
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Feb 21, 2011
Forecast:
Tonight

21°
Sunday

51° | 23°
Monday

52° | 25°
Tuesday

57° | 27°
Wednesday

59° | 28°
Thursday

59° | 30°
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Description 

This wall boasts the classic multi-pitch lines that have made Diablo Canyon famous to the outside communities. If you climb nothing else at Diablo, or it is your first time, I would take a hard look at these lines before you leave. This wall faces south and therefore makes for nice sunny climbing on colder days, but you can catch some great shade on early Summer mornings too, perhaps before 11am.

Many of the routes top out on Diablo Mesa, where you can walk off the back to your car. But they all have decent rappel stations that should get you to the ground without too much headache.


Getting There 

This is the wall you pass on the way to the Solar Cave, on the North side of Diablo Canyon. It is around the corner to the south from the Winter wall.

Climbing Season

For the Diablo Canyon area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sun Devil Wall:
Heat Seeker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Sun Devil   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Suntoucher   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Astro Devil   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Seventh Sun   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sun Devil Wall

Featured Route For Sun Devil Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron on "Icarus"

Icarus 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Sun Devil Wall
A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route. First pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sun Devil Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up topo of Sun Devil Crag
BETA PHOTO: Close-up topo of Sun Devil Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil  3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...
BETA PHOTO: 1-Sun DevilCrack 2-Sun Devil 3-Astro Devil 4-Sun ...
Rock Climbing Photo: SunDevil is #2.
BETA PHOTO: SunDevil is #2.

Comments on Sun Devil Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008
Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 4, 2013
Does anyone know how to contact the FA party for Sun Devil Crack? I would like to clean the crap (read: loose rock) out of it so it is climbable AND fun. Its a beautiful line and deserves repeat ascents. As far as I know, there is no beta for this route, probably because the parties thought it was not worth repeating due to bad gear and loose rock in the chimney system. Perhaps I will add a rap anchor to it as well.

Keep in mind, the FA party probably did not have all the bolted approach pitch options to the Sun-Devil ledge either, so its not necessarily in its pure original form anyhow.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 10, 2015
A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10)

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