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Select Route:
Billy Shears 
Bourbon Street 
Cake Walk 
Jackal, The 
Left Hand Mantel 
Oh Mama Mama 
Pink Flamin' Go 
Tourist Attraction 
Whiskey Crack 
Whiskey Dick 
Zig Zag 

Sun Deck 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Sep 18, 2003

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

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Thunderstorm
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61° | 34°
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BETA PHOTO: Sun Deck Notice climber on Zig Zag 5.8+ (at leas...

Description 

The left side of the first buttress is known as the Sun Deck area and has many interesting and easily accessable climbs on it. Many are accessed from the Sun Deck which can be reached by a walk up on the left side and some 4th class scrambling. This is a favorite hangout for climbers in the 5.10 range since Zig Zag is an exposed 5.9+ lead which then gives access to some harder top-roping possibilities. Also, by leading the easier Jackel, Zig Zag itself can be top-roped. There are also a couple of world class 5.12 test pieces which pull the very impressive roof as well as numerous bouldering problems at the base of Tourist Attraction.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Deck:
Tourist Attraction   5.5     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
The Jackal   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Left Hand Mantel   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Zig Zag   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Oh Mama Mama   5.10c     Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet, Grade II   
Whiskey Crack   5.10c/d     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Billy Shears   5.10d     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Sun Deck

Featured Route For Sun Deck
Not the way I used to do it (skipped Jackal) but is as Phil described.

Billy Shears 5.10d  CO : Gunnison : ... : Sun Deck
Billy Shears is actually a ground to summit link up of three classic Taylor Canyon standards.P1. The 1st pitch is the beautiful and very hard 5.10 offwidth swim fest known as "Hurtin' fer Certain". Start as for "Tourist Attraction" but instead of traversing left towards the easy dihedral, go straight up the ominous overhanging wide crack. Get good reliable pro in early as you may not find it easy to stop and get gear higher up. P.1 ends at the leisurely "Sun Deck".P.2 is the route known as "Jack...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Sun Deck Slideshow Add Photo
Bouldering to the right of the Big Roof, 1973.  Notice, using NO chalk.

Bouldering to the right of the Big Roof, 1973. No...

Better Beta photo than I submitted above.

BETA PHOTO: Better Beta photo than I submitted above.

Heather on "Left handed Mantel" 5.7? (1976) <br /> <br />The "mantel" is directly above her head.

Heather on "Left handed Mantel" 5.7? (1976)

The "...


First Buttress from the road

First Buttress from the road

(1) Tourist Attraction <br />(2) Hurtin for Certain <br />(3) Left Hand Mantel <br />(4) Awkward and Wide <br />(5) Crescent Crack <br />(6) Jackel <br />(7) Inner Space <br />(8) Cake Walk <br />(9) Zig Zag <br />(10) Bourbon Street <br />(11) On The Wagon <br />(12) Whiskey Crack <br />(13) Oh Mama Mama <br />(14) Welcome to China <br />(15) Double Time at Sues's

BETA PHOTO: (1) Tourist Attraction
(2) Hurtin for Certain
(3) ...


Sierra on the Sun Deck.

Sierra on the Sun Deck.


Comments on Sun Deck Add Comment
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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 27, 2007

In the beta photo, the "straight-up" crack to the right of the climber is Whiskey Crack and the finger crack that leans first right and then left is Oh Mamma Mamma.