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This cave sits on the north side of the river and is very obvious from the road/parking as a long, left leaning slash in the wall. The cave houses several routes, and offers warmer temps than the shady side of the VRG (in fact, even though the climbing in the cave never sees the sun, the cave tends to trap warm air which can make for steamy conditions). The rock is far lower quality than the more popular walls at the VRG, but at least the routes are steep.
The Tyrolean across the river is no longer there, but in low water conditions one can rock hop and wade. Park as normal and scramble down by the overpass. Cross the water by a huge boulder on the near bank. From here scramble up left and then directly up to the obvious cave - once across the river the approach is no more than 10 minutes.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sun Cave:
Forever Man 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sun Cave
Forever Man 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Sun Cave
Forever Man is the longest line in the Sun Cave and is very, very steep. I can't remember doing a route that consistently climbs at a 45 degree angle for so long. The quality of the climbing is somewhat lacking: some choss, a cave, fairly boring movement, but it is quite the so-pump-journ in topsy-turvy world.Begin on the left side of a prow feature at the entrance of the cave, clipping the first bolt from some cheater blocks and then pulling up onto the arete and climbing along the entrance t...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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