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Sun Bowl 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Bradlee 12/94
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Ladd on May 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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This is the route.

Description 

Always dry.

Moderate climbing somewhere short of its best. Useful as a warm-up or warm-down if bumming around the mountain has got you down...

This climb has some weird moves including a mandatory pinch (unusual for a 5.8 at Rumney) and a dynamic move that if avoided turns this climb into a 5.10- which sneaks up on ya.

Location 

Right most route on the triple corners wall. Actually on the boulder between Waimea and Triple corners (route on right)

Protection 

3 bolts to Anchor


Photos of Sun Bowl Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave starting up this tricky little route...
Dave starting up this tricky little route...

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By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Jun 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you stray too far right you may end up on a ledge above and away from your 3rd bolt.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Sep 24, 2012

I am not sure what I did wrong on this route but it felt wayyy harder than 5.8.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 24, 2012

You can make it harder quickly if you go too far to the left.
By S. Neoh
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Find good holds on the right after clipping the first bolt. But as Jeffrey pointed out, you will want to climb left towards the third bolt if you want to be able to clip it.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 27, 2013

"I am not sure what I did wrong on this route but it felt wayyy harder than 5.8."

You probably missed the dynamic move. (Or, if you're not tall, the dyno.) Give it another go! The hold you're gunning for is bomber.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Oct 26, 2014

A wicked fun 5.8 climb! Cool moves where you're jetting from one giant jug to another with lousy footholds. Thumbs up on this one.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Sep 17, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I gave this 3 stars six years ago. Wow, I've come a long way. :) Climbed this yesterday and still enjoyed the first half of the route but again naturally found myself climbing up onto the ledge on the right. Annoyed at the 3rd bolt being below me and out of reach, I downclimbed and went up the correct(?) way on jugs on the face. Bleh. Revised my rating to a single star ("OK") and think the 3rd bolt should havbe been closer to the ledge which feels like the most natural way up, perhaps at a grade easier. Just my two cents.

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