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Shelton before the fight with the wide
|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
A great offwidth line. Get warm as you jog up a low angle corner with a hand crack. You then reach a wedged pillar of surprisingly solid rock. Twin cracks on the sides of the pillar lead to a wide slot. Pick a side and slither in, working your way up until you get into #5 BD sized crack. Wrestle this crack through a grunty offset #5 bulge, followed by more #5 crack to a wide pod. Catch your breath for a second before the final "sprint" to the anchors. 50 feet or so of #5 C4 leads you to good bolts and chains.
A 70m reportedly gets you down with stretch. My 60m definitely did not. Be careful when lowering your ropes for the rappel as they could become stuck behind the pillar.
I have rated this route 5.10 for historical purposes... That is the grade given on the "SUMO" plaque at the base. There was also a plaque at the base with "CHACHA POYA" written on it, and also the grade of 5.10 given.
15 yards left of Pente. Look for the long splitter OW up high.
What to bring?
#1 x 1
#2 x 2
#3 x 3
#5 x 3 or 4 depending on your tolerance for pushing them
#6 x 1 (could do without but it made me feel warm and fuzzy)
From: Black Hawk, CO
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
70m just reaches.
And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up.
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 11, 2016
I got up to the offwidth roof, not realizing how tall it was, didn't have enough gear. I brought three useless #4s, only two #5s, and neglected the use for my #6s, and left them on the ground. Ended up bailing from the pilar. Dang it.