This thing is supposed to clock in at 5.9. We made it up the first two pitches; the first pitch is a shallow off width with minimal small gear at the back. The second pitch is awesome. You deal with a corner with a two large cracks coming at you one from each side. Worth doing for the second pitch. After that you have to be comfortable with chimneys or bring lots of Gold Big Bros because itís really wide and really long. There is a detached pillar at the top of the 2nd pitch on which we put some webbing around and a rap ring to bail off. There is not fixed gear on the route except for what is described as a ďsingle pin to rappel off of at the top". Lots of loose rock and besides my party I havenít seen anyone on it before. Be prepared for a famous Beyer Adventure.
to the left of Jingus Launch
Mystery Route and just to the right (3 feet-ish) of Wild-eyed Dear.
1st pitch:Small stuff (nuts and small cams)
2nd pitch: Large (5 Camalot) to hand size cams pieces
3rd pitch:large Big bros
|By Paul Irby|
From: moab, ut
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a X
I climbed this thing a number of years ago. The second pitch was classic. The chimney on the third and fourth pitches was very silty and insecure with no gear except for the belay. We took a standard rack with some large cams. Gear is needed for the belay at the top of the third pitch. Large bigbros will do nothing for you; it's too wide. In fact it's too wide to feel securely wedged in there. Be ready for a hundred foot runout. There is a single bolt at the top of the route that you can use to descend to the other Beyer route to the climber's right. I would highly recommend this climb if you like being terrified!