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pitch 3 with crux moves in view
We climbed this route with the intention of reaching the steep crack above the overhanging wall on the right side of the sun. It has some excellent climbing mixed with some bs. For those who like the OW it's a fun outing. Pitch 1: Begin with a lichenous handcrack on the right side of the sun. Move left under the overhang lowdown. Continue straight up on the slab after the crack ends. There is a #2 Camalot placement partway up the slab (essential), and some small cam or nut placements in the crack just right of the giant hanging prow. 100' 5.9s. Pitch 2: 4th or easy 5th class. Scramble up behind the prow and tunnel through to the other side. Traverse across to the base of the steep wide crack (We roped up here). Pitch 3: Jam up to the overhang and crank through the chicken wing crux. The start of the pitch is a little lichenous, but the pro is bomber the whole way. Belay in the crack above. 5.10d 50'. Continue up easy 4th-class slabs until it is possible to walk off right.
single set of TCUs, Camalots 1-4, double 1-3, a #3 Big Bro would help for the second on the crux.
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 20, 2003
The lichen covered start of pitch 1 is much better than it looks and if it was cleaned up a bit would be quite good 5.9 underclinging and jamming. The upper part of the 1st pitch looks like a total gimme from the ground but is much steeper than it looks. When I led the pitch I missed the crucial #2 camalot placement and was looking at a career ending fall from the 5.7 moves at the top. The pitch could probably use a bolt even with the #2 placement, this would allow one to reach the head wall without an spulunking, but because of its moderate grade it should probably be left as is. I am surprised that this line (as far as we could tell from Hubble's and Trout's books) had not yet been climbed. The key was finding the "cave pitch" that leads to the upper head wall, nice job Brian.