Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bookend
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud 
Bombay Chimney 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 
Corinthian Column 
Great Dihedral, The 
Grovelly Chimney 
Handbook 
Hot Licks 
Knight's Gambit 
Knight's Gambit Variation 
Labor of Lust 
Orange Julius 
Pineapple Juice 
Sicilian Defense 
Sorcerer 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse 
Sorcerer's Apprentice 
Southern Cross 
Strawberry Short Cake 
Summer Festival 
Sun King 
Tarantula 
Treebeard 
Truth 
Unknown Chasm 
Wide Gauge 
Winds of Fortune 
Unsorted Routes:

Summer Festival 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Hidetaka and Mishiko Suzuki, 1983
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: jason seaver on Feb 12, 2007
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
John Tormalehto following the Festival. 12-9-06
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the OJ corner up to the roof and battle out the crack in the right side of the roof. The roof is somewhere around 18 feet long and starts with thin fingers and ends with a crux offwidth section turning the lip. Iíve seen it done a few different ways, so I wonít attempt to give technique beta, but I do suggest checking out the equipment beta.


Location 

This pitch takes the crack out the right side of the Orange Julius roof (the huge, orange triangular roof 60 feet above the ground in the center of the crag).


Protection 

Including cams for the anchor, I would carry a set of wires, a couple thin finger-sized cams, a couple thin-hands-sized cams, two #3 Camalots, one #4 Camalot, two #5 Camalots, and one #3 Bigbro. The Bigbro can take the place of one of the #5 Camalots. After turning the lip, keeping the rope from getting stuck in your gear in the roof is a distinct problem. The solution we found was to use the Bigbro, or one of the big cams, placed upside down at the lip to direct the rope out and around the cams back under the roof. This worked out pretty well for us.
You can belay from cams 30 feet above the lip, then continue with Orange Julius , or you can belay and rap from slings at the end of OJís 2nd pitch. One 60 meter rope will get you down from there.



Comments on Summer Festival Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -