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Summer Breeze 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Biega, 1995
Page Views: 837
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent sport route on the far right side of the Black Wall, has a section of some of Tahoe's finest hard 5.10 face edging.

It is over a hundred feet tall, but can be led and toproped with a 70 m rope from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. It has ample and comfortable room for two people. A few small C3s or the like can make a decent belay anchor.

Climb the ramp up to the first bolt, which is roughly 50 feet off the ground. From here, vertical face climbing on small edges ensues up a black face, and doesn't let up until just before a solid rest edge some 50' later. Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary. It is possible to walk around to the right to access the top anchors, but this unprotected fourth class finish isn't in league with the rest of the climb and really cases rope drag.

Rappel or lower off, or walk off to the right.

Location 

This route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anochor. NOTE - the last bolt on Carville's topo is no longer there.

If you want to climb the route from the ground, a small cam (_1") or two might make the initial ramp more comfortable.


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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2010

To make finding the location more of a no-brainer, this route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.

It can be led/toproped with a 70 m from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. Contrary to what the route poster states, this ledge has ample and comfortable room for two people, although playing games like Twister or staging a boxing match are probably not good ideas. ;) A few small C3s or the like can make a decent anchor.
By Colonel Mustard
Aug 24, 2011

Classic pebble pinching is to be found on this climb. The Black Wall has a grain akin to Tuolumne in places, and sometimes a box cutter of a crystal sticking out too: I found that "pain factor" was a much more salient metric than "pump factor" on at least one hold I misguidedly grasped. I'd put this at a letter grade or two higher than listed, but Summer Breeze may just want to keep its old school cred. And cred it has - that final run out on rock that's a bit rotten has a coal forming pucker factor that can only be savored on lead by hearts more stout than mine. I also blame my shoes ;).

Additionally, the "5.6 ramp" is actually only one of those descriptors. Very low 5th class, imo.
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Aug 26, 2013

"Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary"

Has anyone actually done this?

Also, +1 to the "letter grade or two harder than listed", but the last section is even harder, and there is no protection... so I wonder! It's weird that the bottom section is so well protected, the top seems way out of character with the rest.
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