This sport route is on the WAY Right side of the black wall, and is an excellent sport climb the has a section of some of Tahoe's finest 5.10 face edging.
To access the route, Get over to the right side of the Black Wall, which is easy if you find the tiny hidden path, or really annoying if you don't. Finding the path along the base of the wall is easy, finding the path from the turnout is NOT.
Once you've found the right side of the wall, head up towards the overhang of Lightning Bolt Roof, which you can't miss.
This route is well over a hundred feet from the ground, so be prepared to lower off with 2 ropes or have someone follow. It is also possible to belay from the top of the ramp, though a good place to stand and a good place to set up a fast anchor are sorely lacking. And then you'd have to downclimb a slippery 5.6 ramp.
From the ground, climb the ramp up to the first bolt, which is roughly 50 feet off the ground. From here, vertical face climbing on small edges ensues up a black face, and doesn't let up until just before a solid rest edge some 50' later. Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary. It is possible to walk around to the right to access the top anchors, but this unprotected fourth class finish isn't in league with the rest of the climb and really cases rope drag.
Lower off with 2 ropes, or walk off to the right.
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anochor. NOTE - the last bolt on Carville's topo is no longer there.
If you want to climb the route from the ground, a small cam (_1") or two might make the initial ramp more comfortable.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2010
To make finding the location more of a no-brainer, this route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.
It can be led/toproped with a 70 m from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. Contrary to what the route poster states, this ledge has ample and comfortable room for two people, although playing games like Twister or staging a boxing match are probably not good ideas. ;) A few small C3s or the like can make a decent anchor.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Aug 24, 2011
Classic pebble pinching is to be found on this climb. The Black Wall has a grain akin to Tuolumne in places, and sometimes a box cutter of a crystal sticking out too: I found that "pain factor" was a much more salient metric than "pump factor" on at least one hold I misguidedly grasped. I'd put this at a letter grade or two higher than listed, but Summer Breeze may just want to keep its old school cred. And cred it has - that final run out on rock that's a bit rotten has a coal forming pucker factor that can only be savored on lead by hearts more stout than mine. I also blame my shoes ;).
Additionally, the "5.6 ramp" is actually only one of those descriptors. Very low 5th class, imo.
|By Peter Valchev|
From: Truckee, CA
Aug 26, 2013
"Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary"
Has anyone actually done this?
Also, +1 to the "letter grade or two harder than listed", but the last section is even harder, and there is no protection... so I wonder! It's weird that the bottom section is so well protected, the top seems way out of character with the rest.