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Summer alpine ice conditions in the High Sierra



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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2010
Just below Thunderbolt Peak

MP.com lists a WI3 route on Mt. Mendel and an AI3 route on North Peak.

Has anyone done them this year? I'm hoping they're both fat from El Nino.


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By rhyang
From San Jose, CA
Aug 1, 2010
21-August-2012: Me just before heading up the Twilight Pillar (III, 5.8+)

Give it another month or two -- has to start getting colder, days shorter, colder temps at night, lower sun angle, etc.


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Aug 1, 2010
Bucky

Colin Simon wrote:
MP.com lists a WI3 route on Mt. Mendel and an AI3 route on North Peak. Has anyone done them this year? I'm hoping they're both fat from El Nino.

For the most part, nobody has probably been up there this year because its too early for there to be good ice. Sierra Mtn Guides have not updated their report yet this year, but keep checking in:

www.sierramtnguides.com/administrative/CouloirReport.htm


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By Ryan Huetter
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Aug 1, 2010
From Mountain Magazine (Bruce Carson's first clean ascent of Sentinal Rock's West Face)

Mendel couloir/ Ice Nine is not in. Looks pretty haggard actually- I thought with such a large snow year it would have looked better. Nort Face of Darwin looks ok, still neve, several sections of ice forming up though. Give it another month maybe?


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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2010
Just below Thunderbolt Peak

Damn. Do any of you recommend other ice routes around the same difficulty? I've got to go back to Boulder within a week, maybe something roughly on the way?


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 7, 2010

North Peak ice is in

North Peak gully, Labor Day 2010
North Peak gully, Labor Day 2010
Submitted By: bergbryce on Sep 7, 2010


Perfect snice to reach the ice and good AI to the top.
Do the top scramble to the summit in your boots, it's a lot of fun and a beautiful top out.

We didn't start climbing until probably 10:30 and nothing besides the ice the leaders knocked off came down.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Sep 7, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

That is sexy.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 7, 2010

okay, here's another, from near the top.
was a really fun romp, especially in this state with very little ice climbing.

North Peak ice gully.
North Peak ice gully.
Submitted By: bergbryce on Sep 7, 2010


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By fossana
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 9, 2010
Zion chossy peak traversing

Ice 9 as of last weekend
Ice 9 as of last weekend
Submitted By: fossana on Sep 9, 2010


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