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Summer alpine boots recommendation
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Mar 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Weeping Winds
I'm hoping to go to the Cascades and so some of my first glacier/snow/alpine routes this summer.

I currently have a pair of Scarpa Freneys that are my ice climbing boots, but I was looking to get something a bit lighter weight & comfortable for hiking so that I can hike in as well as climb in them.

I'm looking at the La Sportiva Trango EVO primarily, but the Mammut Monolith GTX look great too and are a bit cheaper. The Trango's have a good reputation. The Monolith's are unknown to me. Can anyone offer some advice/experience with them? Thanks!
Joined Aug 26, 2010
31 points
Mar 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: black nasty
The sportiva evo's will hold up well.
the silver bullet model is best for real crampons (with toe bail)
(this model is good all year - winter & summer. also hikes well)

or you have the red model with no toe bail, and they offer that
one in a ladies model.

if you have a narrow foot, the sportiva will fit well.
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,412 points
Mar 29, 2012
can't go wrong with the silver bullets or the trango evo

maybe some of those new TNF boots if you can find them... basically the same as the trango evo

honestly though, it doesn't get much lighter than the freneys... I would stick with those... more gas money!
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Mar 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun moves after the thin face.
For what it's worth, I love my Mammut Mammok GTX boots. From week long treks in the Brooks Range to glacier travel in the Alaska Range to warm spring ice climbing, this boot seems to do well at all. The lacing system makes this boot amazing though. James Smith
From Fairbanks, AK
Joined Nov 30, 2011
20 points
Mar 29, 2012
Sportiva Evos - I think it comes down to what fits you best, but it's hard to beat the Evos. Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Mar 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
I run my silver bullets (sportiva evo extreme) for everything that needs a crampon. They climb pretty well summer and winter. If I don't need pons i'm in approach shoes. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Mar 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
I've got a pair of Scarpa Mirages I'm pretty dang happy with. They don't make them anymore, but if the Charmoz (the replacement line) is anything like the Mirage, it's a great lightweight summer boot that'll go 3-seasons on Cascade peaks, and even 4 on low-alt peaks.

In fact, come to think, I just wore mine through a blizzard last weekend, and I can't recall my toes ever getting cold..

Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
272 points
Mar 30, 2012
The trango extreme evo is very very similar to your freneys Graham Johnson
Joined Apr 27, 2006
1 points
Apr 23, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Baker
I have Trango EVO's; they're great for the Cascades. A lot of folks also use Freneys, great too. Trangos are narrower than Freneys, so if your Freyneys fit, keep 'em. BirdDog
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 27, 2010
5 points
Apr 23, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
The Scarpa Charmoz is a great boot, like the Freney but lighter. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,397 points
Apr 23, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Near Mt. Challenger, Picket range.
I have climbed and mountaineered in the cascades the past five years (60+ days per year) exclusively in my Trango S Evos (the red ones). I think they are ideal for summers in the cascades. Not too warm but will do just fine on big volcanos and early season while the 3/4 shank makes the long approaches much more bearable than the full shank of the Extremes. They accept crampons well and climb rock super well. The only thing they are not fantastic with is steep vertical ice, although I have used them for that as well. You can't go wrong with them. Have fun this summer! Trever W.
Joined Nov 17, 2009
62 points
Sep 21, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me climbing at lost horizon, NH
i am too in the market for a new 3 season boot in which i could use for technical aswell non technical mountaineering/non mountaineering. i also intend using the boots for mountain rescue. once reading these posts im now torn between the sportiva trango s evo gtx (red ones) and the scarpa charmoz GTX. what would be best living in the sawatch/elk range of colorado. (other intended use: CO 14ers/13ers as well as some winter ascents in NH.)

patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
539 points

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