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Coal Pit Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angering The Angered 
Coalpit Connection 
Direct North Face 
House of Cards 
King Cobra Corner 
One Time at Band Camp 
Organization for the Organized 
Precious Lost 
Refugees From Reality 
Stick Man 
Stiffler's Mom 
Stifflers Stiffy 
Stuck a Flute in My 
Tony's Route 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jame Garrett, Tyler Phillips, Franziska Garrett 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 1, 2005
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>


This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress.

Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.

Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.

One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.


QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2005

Why not post the info? Then all these sweet new lines will get climbed, cleaned, and grades confirmed! Oh yeah!!