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 ADVANCED
c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver T 
Arch T 
Arch Direct T 
Baby T 
Billy Shears T 
Bloody Bush T 
Bloody Mary T 
City Lights T 
Crusty Waffles T 
Drunkard's Delight T 
Easy Overhang T 
Fetus T 
Frog's Head T 
Jean T 
Kama Sutra T,TR 
Link-Up: Sixish to roof of Drunkard's Delight T 
Maria T 
Maria Direct T 
Maria Redirect T,TR 
Morning After T 
Night Fall T 
Pas de Deux T 
Patty Duke T 
Precarious Perch T 
Rock and Brew T 
Rusty Trifle T 
Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

Sultana 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick Williams
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: vanishing spy on Sep 3, 2013

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Description 

P1) Climb the right facing feature and pull an easy roof to a dirty overgrown ledge. Head up to an obvious left pointing flake. Diagonal rightish before traversing left for obvious crack you can see from the ground. This crack is capped by a roof/crux. Again, pull this dirty roof (maybe just right of the crack). The pitch ends on a ledge with a small tree, there is no rap station as of Sept, 2013.

P2) Go straight up through the lichen. There is a left-facing flake feature and a piton you can look for. Grey Dick says there is a bolted belay, but there is not. Continue to the GT ledge and belay.

You can rap Maria's bolted stations. Both pitches can be combined easily.

Location 

This route is just right of the Maria corner. To start, look right from the thin crack of Maria Redirect to find an obvious right-arching feature leading to a shallow roof about 10ft up. Look up higher for the vertical crack leading to the crux roof. The route is dirty and covered in lichen up high, but it does exist.

Protection 

Old rusty pitons here and there. Standard rack is fine, but the route is run out and wanders. Bring extra slings.


Comments on Sultana Add Comment
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By SethG
Sep 4, 2013

Thanks for taking this one for the team... I've been curious about it and its neighbor Scungilli. I heard they were both really dirty.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 5, 2013

I second Seth's comment.

edit add: ok, Dana, I'll do it. Sometime. I promise ;-)
By vanishing spy
Sep 6, 2013

The climbing is very dirty and I tried my best to follow the Dick Williams description while on route. The climbing felt relatively easy for a gunks 5.8 but due to the difficult route finding, wandering nature and intermediate protection, I couldn't say it was any easier than the grade.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Sep 6, 2013

I've done both Scungilli and Sultana.
Fine routes, your resume is incomplete if you haven't done them.
Yesterday's Lemonade, Raspberry Sundae, Beyond the Fringe, Sheep Thrills - people walk right by these on their way to what? The McCarthy Wall, High E., etc.
I don't get it.