Sully's Route 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Lynn, Heerdt |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Hermes Lynn on May 29, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Sully's Route. 2 Bolt anchor at the top....
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New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>
June 2009 Update: There have been recent new developments in climbers access to Allenspur. For years the "Red Barn Antiques" property (now under new ownership) has been off-limits for use to approach the crags- all access has been via the Harper property easement. The current owners, however, are interested allowing climbers to hike to the crags via a more direct trail across the southern end of their property. The SMCC and the landowners have entered into a one-year trial period for SMCC Members and their guests to use this new approach.
For more info and photos:
www.montanaclimbers.org/access/allenspur
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang.
P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left.
Location The route begins just behind the nice shady juniper. Rappel descent.
Protection 8 bolts shares anchor with the route Todos.
| Comments on Sully's Route |
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By Bud Martin
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 21, 2010
| Very fun route, the jugs in the bulge make it a hero climb! |
By Jeff J
From: Bozeman
Sep 22, 2010
| Great route. One of the best at Allenspure, I was on this route with in a week of the FA, since then it has become very clean and a real joy to climb. It looks like there is more to come; up right of Beach break there is new bolt that heads just above the large roof, look like a promising second pitch in the making. |
By Hermes Lynn
From: Sheridan, WY
Oct 11, 2010
| I finished bolting the second pitch with Josh Apple. The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left. |
By Sam Stephens
Jul 22, 2011
| One of the absolute best at Allenspur. |
By kozzybear
From: Oconomowoc, WI
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Rancho is great, but I think to combine both pitches is THE climb to do here. |
By Sarah-Min
From: livingston
May 19, 2013
| Just did this climb, I was high for a week! One of the best climbs at the Spur. |
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