P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang.
P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left.
The route begins just behind the nice shady juniper. Rappel descent.
8 bolts shares anchor with the route Todos.
|Comments on Sully's Route
|By Bud Martin|
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 21, 2010
Very fun route, the jugs in the bulge make it a hero climb!
|By Jeff J|
Sep 22, 2010
Great route. One of the best at Allenspure, I was on this route with in a week of the FA, since then it has become very clean and a real joy to climb. It looks like there is more to come; up right of Beach break there is new bolt that heads just above the large roof, look like a promising second pitch in the making.
|By Hermes Lynn|
From: Sheridan, WY
Oct 11, 2010
I finished bolting the second pitch with Josh Apple. The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left.
|By Sam Stephens|
Jul 22, 2011
One of the absolute best at Allenspur.
From: Oconomowoc, WI
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Rancho is great, but I think to combine both pitches is THE climb to do here.
May 19, 2013
Just did this climb, I was high for a week! One of the best climbs at the Spur.