Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sullivan's Canyon

Select Area...
Lower Sullivan's 
Lower Sullivan's, South Side 
Upper Sullivan's 

Sullivan's Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 12,172
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BCramer on May 6, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

48°
Sunday

74° | 53°
Monday

73° | 51°
Tuesday

71° | 51°
Wednesday

72° | 50°
Thursday

73° | 51°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Sword of Damocles, rattly off-width...

Description 

Basalt lined canyon cut by the Verde River. Steep, dark colored rock with many cracks and pocketed faces. Can be shady or sunny depending on which wall of the canyon you're on. Dark rock can really heat up. Never crowded. Most locals call it Sullies Canyon or just Sullies. There is some good bouldering to be done on the heavily polished blocks that have fallen in the river and alongs its banks. Watch for petroglyphs.
Despite the fact that most of the routes end at bolted rap stations, BOLTING FACE ROUTES IS NOT PERMITTED. The anchor bolts were placed because climbing out above the basalt band is dangerous and would pose a hazard to both climbers and those on the ground due to all the loose rocks. Furthermore, it is felt that adding bolts to create climbs on the narrow faces between the cracks would ruin the crack climbing experience. What face climbs there are can often be top-roped from anchors after leading one of the crack routes. Local climbers prefer that this remain a no bolting area.

Getting There 

The canyon is located east of highway 89 north of the city of Chino Valley. It is roughly divided into two sections - Upper Sulivan's and Lower Sullivan's - each area has it's own approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.3 miles from here

66 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',7],['5.9',12],['5.10',28],['5.11',12],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sullivan's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sullivan's Canyon:
Twin Cracks    5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Upper Sullivan's
Leaving the cradle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Lower Sullivan's : The Nursery
Sharp End   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : The Nursery
Better Than Mecca   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 30'   Lower Sullivan's : Opera House, Hot Spot
Slipstream   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Lower Sullivan's : Concrete Jungle
Mrs Whittaker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : The Nursery
Easy Option   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   Lower Sullivan's : Main Wall
Apple Pie   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Lower Sullivan's : Timmie's East
911   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : The Nursery
S Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Upper Sullivan's
Distant Vision   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : Concrete Jungle
Post Classic   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : Opera House, Hot Spot
Disco Inferno   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Lower Sullivan's : Concrete Jungle
Wheeler Dealer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Lower Sullivan's : Opera House, Hot Spot
Classic   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Lower Sullivan's : Opera House, Hot Spot
Sword of Damocles   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Sullivan's : Opera House, Hot Spot
Bohemian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Sullivan's : Concrete Jungle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sullivan's Canyon

Featured Route For Sullivan's Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin Kessler Getting after it with the on-sight!...

Disco Inferno 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Concrete Jungle
The aesthetic crack facing up canyon! Classic of the area!...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Sullivan's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out from the Nursery..
Looking out from the Nursery..

Comments on Sullivan's Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 23, 2008
Not a destination crag by any measure but a great local spot to hone your skills, especially during the cooler months. Due to the slightly lower elevation than Prescott and the way the canyon traps the sun/heat, it can often be freezing in Prescott and mild in the canyon with no-shirt climbing days in January and February.

Though it can be rough on the hands, the plethora of face holds allows jamming practice with the relief of intermittent face holds. Most climbs are short, but it still gets credit with preparing multiple generations of Prescott area climbers for bigger and better things. A wide variety of cracks and face (top-ropes) from 5.6 to 5.11.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 6, 2012
Fun place as long as you can ignore the attitude thrown about by the Flagstaff "locals".
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 9, 2013
I guess if I knocked an entire town full of climbers in some pouty fit, after a year I'd take the comment down....
By Alexander Parrish
From: Prescott, Arizona
Dec 21, 2014
I found a pair of prescription glasses in a case yesterday 12/20/14 at one of the walls. If you can tell me what the case looks like and what exact wall I found them by I will get them back to you.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 23, 2015
Well I knew the day would come. I started rearranging the info here for Sullies to try and preserve it, as well as, make it a little more user friendly. It will take a day for the route counts to adjust, and the rest will be a "work in progress" for a bit.

A BIG thanks to Josh Gross for both all his hard work and new routes at the crag over the last twenty some years, and also for helping to sort out all the info here on Mountain Project.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!