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The Black Jack Boulder
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Suicide Kings 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lee hansche and Lily Hallett 9/14/09
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 14, 2009

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Jakob on Suicide Kings

Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I admit that some of the routes I've cleaned at Rumney amount to licking the bottom of the ice cream bowl. Though i enjoy them they hadn't been missed they were just waiting for someone who cared. This one I feel has Much more to offer the average climber. It is now the second best line on this rock and worth doing for sure either as a trad route a top rope or a moderate high ball problem with the hardest moves happening in the 1st 15 feet.

Climb the crack and ramp system up and left to a stance where you can place good gear and execute the fun top out.

Video link:

Location 

As you walk in to the black jacks look behind the Umbrella Traverse boulder there are a couple of nasty old bolts on a blank face this route climbs an angling crack that follows a narrow ramp. Pretty obvious when you see it.

Protection 

A couple cams and nuts.


Photos of Suicide Kings Slideshow Add Photo
The freshly cleaned and super fun Suicide Kings 5....
BETA PHOTO: The freshly cleaned and super fun Suicide Kings 5....
Jakob on suicide kings
Jakob on suicide kings

Comments on Suicide Kings Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 15, 2009

What size cams did you use? just a rough size if you dont mind sir
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 16, 2009

I used a hand sized piece in a funky but good spot about 10 feet up, a maybe #6 or #7 nut at about half way, and a red tcu worked perfectly just before the top... There are other options for sure, i aided up a ways when cleaning it and i got about 7 pieces in the first half of the route :)

if you climb it tell me how it goes for you...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 16, 2009

Video of the route... you miss some of the crux which is down on the lower half but it gives you the idea...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 9, 2009

lee i havent checked this out yet the day i planned on it got rained out and i havent gotten over here with the trad rack yet but before the snow falls for sure. the crux is at the bottom right?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 10, 2009

yup... crux in the first 10 ft or so... try to eye the gear from the ground as much as you can... the top out is easier to the left... have fun and tell me how it goes...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 10, 2009

If it is nice wed I will probably be getting on it so you will here from me, it looks sweet.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Jun 6, 2010

is there anything to set a top rope up to.i thought i saw a tree
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2010

The tree is off to the side a bit... your best bet is to use Hand sized cams in the crack on top of the boulder... enjoy!
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Nov 23, 2010

this there enough places for a full nut rack climb
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 25, 2010

a few cams are helpful for sure... it doesnt eat up the nuts