Suicide Blonde 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Drew Bedford |
| Submitted By: | veritus on Jun 30, 2006 |
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Description Overhung and short. Jugs most of the way up. Moves surrounding the last bolt are slightly desperate.
Location Left-most line on the west-facing Hard Rock wall.
Protection bolts
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Belay area and route
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| Comments on Suicide Blonde |
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By D. Durrant Oct 11, 2007
| Wow, how many people have not gotten off the ground on this one. Can a route be polished to a new letter grade? If the bottom gives you fits, try Juggernaut. |
By hEatchel From: Salt Lake City, Utah Feb 21, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| i noticed a bolt line above suicide blonde that looked good! Does anybody know what the route is named or rated ?? |
By McRae Williams May 13, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| My buddy led this route and then I top roped it. I fell at the crux, but then sent it. I want to work it on lead. The Longer moves with positive holds really got me stoked. Hope to redpoint soon. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Jul 3, 2008
| Hardest 5.11b I've ever tried. VERY polished. I agree with D. Durrant on maybe it's time to bump the grade up. Took several tries and I was still pumped out of my brains when I finally did it. "Eight to Eleven" is very easy by comparison. |
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Sep 3, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| classic route. i didnt think the polish made it much harder at all, when compared to baghdad at the division wall i would say it falls right in the middle of the grade. |
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Sep 22, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| I think it's correct at .11b. The start has a crappy foot or two, but this is AF after all. Uninspiring black foot nubbins abound, and the climbs are generally solid at their grade. I thought juggernaut seemed harder for what it's worth. (From the one time I've been on each route.) |
By McRae Williams Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| Finally went back for the redpoint on this one. Got it after working out a few moves. Excellent route. |
By Bad Sock Puppet From: Utah May 25, 2009 rating: 5.11b
| This is an AF classic. I didn't feel that Suicide Blonde was all that hard, and in fact the feet didn't feel as polished as I expected from all the comments. A tough onsight. The trick to Suicide Blonde is being able to distinguish the good holds for the overabundance of pockets and crimps on the route. Once you've dialed your sequence than it's ridiculously easy. |
By Cameron Card From: American Fork, Ut Jun 1, 2009
| yeah I defiantly agree with bad sock p. I would say the rating went down after learning the right beta. defiantly a classic! |
By Brian Koralewski From: Springville, Utah Aug 4, 2009 rating: 5.11b
| All my friends are shorter and they always stacked a rock boost on the ground to get to the 1st jug. I flashed Juggernaut, but Suicide Blonde took me about a dozen tries. I kept falling after the steep part on the easier face above because I was so pumped or so glad to be done with the boulder problem below that I lost my concentration. |
By John Rosner From: Hopkins, MN Jul 29, 2011
| Onsighted this with a a jump start. It is polished which makes a difference, however I think which holds I chose and which I didn't made it sendable the first time. I could see choosing some of the other chalked up holds and loosing it. I agree with whoever said that this was harder than eight to eleven. With all the polish, 8 to 11 is a better climb. (just skip going to the 3rd rusty chains) |
By steve edwards From: SLC, UT Apr 11, 2012
| The second pitch is 12a or b and excellent. It's not Beehive's second pitch. |
By bheller From: SL UT May 29, 2012
| Second pitch is Dreadlocks- 12c |
By OldManRiver From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Sep 29, 2012
| probably the most fun I've had to start a route |
By Jballz From: Cincy oh Nov 6, 2012
| Super soft. Again giant holds with good feet. I've climbed 10b's that are harder than this. |
By TLEE From: Salt Lake City 1 day ago rating: 5.11b
| This is one of the best routs ive been on. I had to stack a couple rocks to reach the starting holds, but after that its a great series of solid holds and moves. |
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