|Bug Barn Dance Wall
A fun, solid limestone route. There are tiny edges, jug sidepulls, hidden jugs, a deep muddy pocket, and one two-finger pocket.
There are two cruxes: The first is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is pretty balancy until a jug sidepull. The second is the slightly overhung section after clipping the penultimate bolt.
Counting from the left side of BBDW this is the 4th route. It shares the starting bolt with the route to its left (Lacy Doggie Panties). After the first bolt, take the right and slightly higher of the two bolts at approximately the same level.
7 bolts and chain anchors.
Tony and Dewd at Bug Barn.
Apr 13, 2008
Fun climb with some really fun and not too complicated moves. I will for sure do this one again.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Fun move between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Lots of good feet. Great 3 finger pocket up on the light band of rock. Too stout to be a 5.10a, more like a 10b.
|By darrell hodges|
Apr 10, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The finish is easier if you go slightly left between the last bolt and the chains.
Not sure if that is the intended line or if the harder line to the right of the anchor is the correct one. Either way works but the right side version feels harder than 10A.
|By Jon Bitter|
From: Waco, Tx
May 20, 2010
Awesome route. Has a little bit of everything from balancey moves at the bottom, to some mantles, to crimps and jugs, and even a sloper and a 2 finger hole. Way fun.
But I agree that the top feels harder than 10a. Maybe I did it the hard way, but between the last two bolts I did a pretty tricky, and very committing series of moves involving a layback with my weight on a single sketchy crimp.