BETA PHOTO: The north side of Sugarloaf.
This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.
From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf:
Magnet 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Thriller Off the Void 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c North America
: ... : Sugarloaf
The Bourdon guide unaccountably designates this pleasant pitch a super classic. Far easier in the grade than the nearby Block and Tackle.On the north side of Sugarloaf, climb left facing corner with a wide crack. Pull up onto the face and climb an 80+ degree face with some fingerlocks past three bolts; the crux moves between bolts two and three are pretty easy if you identify the footholds before launching into the sequence. Belay off the power tower....[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: The south side of Sugarloaf.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Aug 18, 2016
8/14/16: heads up there arent any rap rings or even chains at the top of some of these routes; just two standard sport hangers (NOT metolius rap hangers). I opted to down climb which was rather enjoyable. However if you intend to rap bring some quick links or figure out a way to walk off.