Photo by Blitzo.
Sugarloaf is a huge granite spire towering over the town of Kyburz on highway 50 between Placerville and Tahoe. It is considered an excellent winter crag because of its lower elevation and south-facing position. There's both sport and trad, single and multi-pitch and easy and hard climbs. The spire is about 350 feet tall and you can walk off the uphill side without much difficulty.
The Sugarloaf area also includes a few smaller rocks that you can find on the way up to Sugarloaf proper.
From the Bay Area, head East on 80 to Sacramento, then take 50 East, through Placerville and another ~31 miles to Silverfork. Once at the small gas station in Silverfork you have .6 miles until the dirth pullout on the side of the road (which is right after Sugarloaf Road). You'll be certain you're in the right place if you see the 'Entering Silverfork' roadsign just behind you on the opposite side of the road.
From the east end of the pullout, cross highway 50 and skirt the left side of the barbed-wire fence. Walk uphill for ~200 feet and you'll find a 'now entering forest service land' sign. From here a climber's trail is obvious and you just walk up it to the crags.
Sugarloaf is about a 30 minute hike straight up the hill.
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
"The Ghost In The Machine".
Photo by Blitzo.
Atop Sugarloaf, above the Grand Illusion roof.
Mike Arechiga on, The Dominion. 5.10a.
Mike Arechiga on, Blue Velvet. 5.10c.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2009
Just a tip regarding the weather link for this page: my recent personal analysis and actual experience has been that Weather Underground (much as I love that site) does not portray an accurate forecast for the Kyburz area. Use noaa.gov instead; although their weather models are probably larger (and therefore less "local") than wunderground's, they seem more accurate.
If you check out the current list of Weather Underground's reporting stations at the bottom of the page (also visually listed on their WunderMap tab), you will see that not a single station is located at the same elevation as Kyburz--all are higher or lower. Further, I believe the numerous stations around South Lake skew the general forecast given for Kyburz to be colder/cooler than it really will be. Having climbed there on a day that was forecasted to be 40° with 40 mph wind gusts by Weather Underground and then finding nothing of the sort has confirmed my suspicions. That same day was forecasted to be 61° with 10 mph winds by noaa.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Mar 13, 2010
Has anyone climbed at Sugarloaf today, April 29? Just wondering what the snow level is like and if the approach is not too snowed in. Thx!