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DescriptionSugarloaf is a huge granite spire towering over the town of Kyburz on highway 50 between Placerville and Tahoe. It is considered an excellent winter crag because of its lower elevation and south-facing position. There's both sport and trad, single and multi-pitch and easy and hard climbs. The spire is about 350 feet tall and you can walk off the uphill side without much difficulty. Getting ThereFrom the Bay Area, head East on 80 to Sacramento, then take 50 East, through Placerville and another ~31 miles to Silverfork. Once at the small gas station in Silverfork you have .6 miles until the dirth pullout on the side of the road (which is right after Sugarloaf Road). You'll be certain you're in the right place if you see the 'Entering Silverfork' roadsign just behind you on the opposite side of the road. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Scheister 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Harding's Chimney 5.7 Trad, 435 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Lurch 5.8 Trad Sugarloaf, East Face
Farley 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Pony Express 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Sugarloaf, West Face
Morticia 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
TM's Deviation 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Sugarloaf, West Face
Dominion 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Fingerlock 5.10a/b Trad Sugar Bun
Self Abuse 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet Midway Rock
Hyperspace 5.10b Trad, 165 feet Sugarloaf, West Face
Bolee Gold 5.10c Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet Sugarloaf, South Face
Blue Velvet 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Happy Face 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Sugarloaf, West Face
The Fracture 5.10d Trad Sugarloaf, East Face
Make That Move Right Now Baby 5.10d Sport Sugar Bun
Taurus 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Telesis 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Captain Fingers 5.12c Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet Sugarloaf, East Face
Grand Illusion 5.13b Trad, 1 pitch Sugarloaf, East Face
Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Hyperspace 5.10b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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