Sugarloaf, West Face Rock Climbing
Mike Dahlquist rides the first pitch of Pony Expre...
The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.
Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
The Podium 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 2 pitches
Happy Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Espresso 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Pony Express 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Pony Express is a great way to start the day. The first pitch (5.8) is worthy of 3 stars, a lieback flake for a ways then it turns into a left-facing open book. The second pitch only deserves 1 star... continue up from the belay on easy climbing for ~20 feet then use a wide crack in the gully to pull a bulge (5.9). After the crux its 3rd class to the top. Finding Pony Express is quite simple too. It starts in the middle of a clean face on a very obvious flake - the only one in the vicinity....[more] Browse More Classics in CA