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Sugarloaf, West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T,S 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

Sugarloaf, West Face  


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Location: 38.7764, -120.3085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,133
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
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Beautiful panoramic shot highlights the west side ...

Description 

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.

Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
The Podium   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches   
Pony Express   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
TM's Deviation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hyperspace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 165'   
Happy Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Mike Dahlquist rides the first pitch of Pony Express (5.8)

Pony Express 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Pony Express is a great way to start the day. The first pitch is worthy of 3 stars, a lieback flake for a ways then it turns into a left-facing open book. The second pitch only deserves 1 star... continue up from the belay on easy climbing for ~20 feet then use a wide crack in the gully to pull a bulge (5.9). After the crux its 3rd class to the top. Finding Pony Express is quite simple too. It starts in the middle of a clean face on a very obvious flake - the only one in the vicinity....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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