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The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.
Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.
11 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
TM's Deviation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Hyperspace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 165'
Happy Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Man Who Fell to Earth 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
TM's Deviation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
This is either a second pitch to West Chimney or Pony Express. Starts 40' directly south (downhill) of the top of p1 of Pony Express.Belay in a shady alcove, start up a slick face squeeze with a finger crack on the wall that takes good pro from #2 camalot to finger sizes. Pull out into handcrack and face on good knobs. Turns to lower angle wide fist, with good feet on the face. Then get down to business as you pull into a squeeze. A helmet will hose you here. There is a good horizon...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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