Sugarloaf, West Face Rock Climbing
Mike Dahlquist rides the first pitch of Pony Expre...
The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.
Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
The Podium 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 2 pitches
Happy Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Espresso 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Fat Merchant Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
"Sugarloaf's wide crack testpiece". Start in the wide chimney and burrow yourself in deep. After about 50 ft the crack narrows to a tight squeeze where you'll find a hideing piton in a horizontal crack deep inside the chimney. After clipping the piton, you'll have to drop down a few feet to be able to squeeze your way out of the crack. This is where the struggle begins. You can protect this section if you have 12" gear or you'll have to work your way up another 20 ft until you can get a #6...[more] Browse More Classics in CA