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Sugarloaf, West Face

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West Chimney 

Sugarloaf, West Face 


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Location: 38.7764, -120.3085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,097
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
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Beautiful panoramic shot highlights the west side ...

Description 

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.


Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
TM's Deviation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hyperspace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 165'   
Happy Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Climbers on Hyperspace

Hyperspace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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