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Sugarloaf, West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

Sugarloaf, West Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7764, -120.3085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,071
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
Forecast:
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Beautiful panoramic shot highlights the west side ...

Description 

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.

Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
The Podium   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches   
TM's Deviation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hyperspace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 165'   
Happy Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Espresso   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: bring the bigstuff

Fat Merchant Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
"Sugarloaf's wide crack testpiece". Start in the wide chimney and burrow yourself in deep. After about 50 ft the crack narrows to a tight squeeze where you'll find a hideing piton in a horizontal crack deep inside the chimney. After clipping the piton, you'll have to drop down a few feet to be able to squeeze your way out of the crack. This is where the struggle begins. You can protect this section if you have 12" gear or you'll have to work your way up another 20 ft until you can get a #6...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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