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Sugarloaf, West Face
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Five Ten Arrowhead Climbing Shoe

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MSR Miniworks EX Microfilter

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fat Merchant Crack 
Happy Face 
Hyperspace 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The 
Only the Young Die Brave 
Pony Express 
TM's Deviation 
Twist and Shout 
Under the Spreading Atrophy 
West Chimney 

Sugarloaf, West Face 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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The corner above the first ledge.

Description 

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.


Getting There 

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
TM's Deviation   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Fat Merchant Crack   5.10b X     Trad, 2 pitches   
Hyperspace   5.10b     Trad, 165 feet   
Happy Face   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, West Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Climbers on Hyperspace

Hyperspace 5.10b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA