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DescriptionThe west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf. Getting ThereUpon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, West Face:
Pony Express 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet
TM's Deviation 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Fat Merchant Crack 5.10b X Trad, 2 pitches
Hyperspace 5.10b Trad, 165 feet
Happy Face 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
The Man Who Fell to Earth 5.11b Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, West Face
Hyperspace 5.10b CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, West Face
Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs....[more] Browse More Classics in CA |