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Sugarloaf Ridge State Park
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Asteroid Boulders, The 
Canyon Trail Boulder 
Love and Hate 
Sacred Rocks, The 
Sugar and Spice 
SugarSmack Boulder 
Triangle Boulder - Sugarloaf Ridge 

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park 


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Lat, Long: 38.443, -122.5052 Map
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The view of some of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park fro...

Description 

Located high above Santa Rosa lies a large park of rock known as Sugarloaf State Park. There's rock everywhere in this park. Unfourtunately, most of it is crummy volcanic rock that's too unstable for establishing routes. However, many of the tuff boulders in the park offer good bouldering on solid rock with very diverse ratings and problems.

This is one of the closest bouldering areas to The Bay Area, located just 15 minutes East of Santa Rosa, which is roughly a 50 minute drive from Central Bay locations. I drive like a bat out of hell on the 101, and can get there in 55 minutes, even being nice on Adobe Canyon Road.

There are no access fees.

Sugarloaf park is named so because of the packaging that sugar used to be sold in the 1900's looked a lot like the rolling hills found in the park .

Camping is allowed in the park at the disignated campground which is easlily found just before the day use lot. Top roping the cliff behind the parking lot is also an option.

There is lots of development potential at Sugarloaf, and it is a sight of some recent new problems. Potential first ascentionists should try to keep their routes facing away from established hiking trails so as to not detract from other peoples experiences while in the park.


Getting There 

From the Bay Area, head first to Santa Rosa via the 101 North.

Once into Santa Rosa, take the exit for highway 12, and continue on 12 East 11 miles to Adobe Canyon Road, where you should go left. Sugarloaf State Park is signed at this turn.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf Ridge State Park:
The kids Climb   5.4     Boulder   Canyon Trail Boulder
Love   V0     Boulder   Love and Hate
The Sacred Traverse   V2     Boulder   The Sacred Rocks
Suga Mama   V2     Boulder   Sugar and Spice
Call of the Wild   V3     Boulder   The Sacred Rocks
Triangle Arete   V3     Boulder   Triangle Boulder - Sugarloa...
Love and Hate   V4     Boulder, 10 feet   Love and Hate
The Sugar Traverse   V4-5     Boulder   The Sacred Rocks
The Fifth Element   V5     Boulder, 10 feet   The Asteroid Boulders
White Fang   V6     Boulder   The Sacred Rocks
The Milky Way Traverse   V7     Boulder, 20 feet   The Asteroid Boulders
Neptune   V7     Boulder, 10 feet   The Asteroid Boulders
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Ridge State Park
A couple hotties doing the V1 start to the "Triangle Arete"!

Triangle Arete V3  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Triangle Boulder - Sugarloa...
Sit start at base of short triangle shaped arete. or: stand start = V0. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on Sugarloaf Ridge State Park Add Comment
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By ScoRo
From: Portland, OR
Oct 16, 2005

Hey, looking for someone to show me around the boulders here. New to the area, found a few off Canyon Trail today while I was there, e-mail me at Millhouse51183@aol.com if you can help me out. Beautiful park.

By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Aug 29, 2010

Check out some info and pics of almost all of the bouldering in the area as well as some newly found and developed stuff here on my blog;

summitorplummet.blogspot.com/sugarloaf ridge bouldering -reborn!

By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Aug 29, 2010

a tree fell on the Asteroid Boulder taking out a few of the problems like the problems near and including the start of Milky Way Traverse :(

but the new boulders near the top of Canyon Trail (in the creek across from Pony Gate Trailhead) are brand new and make up for the other loss and there is more potential in the creek as well! come on out for some fa fun!! Aron - Brian . . ? ?