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Boy Scout Ledges 
Devil's Kitchen 
Middle Earth 
Pillar, The 
West View Parking Lot Boulders 
White Rocks 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Seneca Ridge Trail
The Seneca Ridge Trail ("SRT") connects Schaeffer Farms to Seneca Creek State Park. Near Gaithersburg, MD
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sugarloaf Mountain 


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Administrators: Frances Fierst, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009

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Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>


Kyle climbing "Seven Wishes" 5.6 G.

Description 

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out www.sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.


Getting There 

www.sugarloafmd.com/sl_directions.html

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf Mountain:
Secondhand Smoke   V2     Boulder, 8 feet   West View Parking Lot Bould...
Third Degree Burn   V3-4     Boulder, 15 feet   West View Parking Lot Bould...
Cub Scout Cracks (a.k.a. cakewalk cracks)   5.3     Trad, TR, 35 feet   Boy Scout Ledges
The Cave Route   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 55 feet   Middle Earth
Pebbles and Bam-Bam   5.4     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Pillar
For Short People Only   5.5     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Middle Earth
A Flake Called Lee   5.5     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Middle Earth
Seven Wishes   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Middle Earth
Slow & Easy   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Devil's Kitchen : Mottled Wall
Wish You Were Here   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 26 feet   Boy Scout Ledges
The Sherpa Connection   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet   White Rocks
Butterfingers   5.8     Trad, TR, 30 feet   Middle Earth
Green Thumb   5.9-     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   White Rocks
Demon Breath   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Devil's Kitchen : Mottled Wall
Rhythm Roof   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 39 feet   Middle Earth
Bloodguard   5.9+ R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37 feet   Middle Earth
Go Ballistic   5.10b     Trad, TR, 30 feet   Middle Earth
Lucifer   5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   White Rocks
Luciifer Direct   5.11-     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   White Rocks
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf Mountain

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Mountain
Base of The Cave Route

The Cave Route 5.4  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD