Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sugarloaf Mountain

Select Area...
Boy Scout Ledges 
Castle Rock 
Devil's Kitchen 
Lower Westview Slabs 
Middle Earth 
Pillar, The 
Upper West View / Sunset Wall  
West View Parking Lot Boulders 
White Rocks 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Washington & Old Dominion Trail
A 50-mile rail trail connecting the inner Virginia suburbs to western Loudoun County. Near Purcellville, Virginia
Freedom Center Loop
Tucked away in the foothills between Leesburg and Lucketts is this XC gem. Near Lovettsville, Virginia
Perimeter Loop
A straightforward loop around the perimeter of the park. Near Lovettsville, Virginia
Saddleback Trail (Yellow)
The longest loop in the park and the only trail on which bikes are allowed. Near Clarksburg, Maryland
Beginner/Intermediate Trail
A beginner-friendly warm-up for Emmitsburg's flowy, rocky goods. Near Emmitsburg, Maryland
The Emmitsburg Multi User Trail Tour
A hilly loop route showcasing the stacked loop system around Rainbow Lake. Near Emmitsburg, Maryland
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sugarloaf Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.26381, -77.3953 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,640
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
Forecast:
Today

88° | 68°
Thursday

80° | 60°
Friday

78° | 59°
Saturday

78° | 60°
Sunday

79° | 62°
Labor Day

84° | 65°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Kyle climbing "Seven Wishes" 5.6 G.

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There 

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directions....

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',17],['5.7',9],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',7],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf Mountain:
Gunboat Diplomacy    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 40'   Devil's Kitchen : The Blade
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Boy Scout Ledges
The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   Middle Earth
For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
Phasers on Stun   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   White Rocks
Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Earth
Time of the Prophets   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Boy Scout Ledges
In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Earth
The Prow Left   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Boy Scout Ledges
Slow & Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Devil's Kitchen : Mottled Wall
Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   Middle Earth
Climber Sensitivity Training Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 30'   White Rocks
The Sherpa Connection   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   White Rocks
White Quartz Wielder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 39'   Middle Earth
Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   Middle Earth
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf Mountain

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: red line shows the route for MR HUTT'S TP

Mr. Hutt's TP 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Upper West View / Sunset Wa...
Begin on the crack furthest to the right. Finish at anchor point #2. The crack opens up very wide at the roof just below the anchors. You will know you are in the right spot when you find the beautiful pure white quartzite. Pull the roof left for a more satisfying big move that will likely involve a left heal hook. Pull the roof right for a an easy way out....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Comments on Sugarloaf Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alec Manougian
Mar 15, 2016
Anyone know if there are slings/nuts left at the top of the majority of the Trad routes? What are the expected rappel options here without leaving additional gear?
By Scytalle
Mar 16, 2016
Pretty much every route that I know of you can walk/scramble off, rappeling isn't necessary.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!