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Sugarloaf Mountain

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Boy Scout Ledges 
Devil's Kitchen 
Middle Earth 
Pillar, The 
Upper West View / Sunset Wall  
West View Parking Lot Boulders 
White Rocks 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Washington & Old Dominion Trail
A 50-mile rail trail connecting the inner Virginia suburbs to western Loudoun County. Near Purcellville, Virginia
Perimeter Loop
A straightforward loop around the perimeter of the park. Near Point of Rocks, Maryland
Freedom Center Loop
Tucked away in the foothills between Leesburg and Lucketts is this XC gem. Near Point of Rocks, Maryland
Saddleback Trail (Yellow)
The longest loop in the park and the only trail on which bikes are allowed. Near Clarksburg, Maryland
Beginner/Intermediate Trail
A beginner-friendly warm-up for Emmitsburg's flowy, rocky goods. Near Emmitsburg, Maryland
The Emmitsburg Multi User Trail Tour
A hilly loop route showcasing the stacked loop system around Rainbow Lake. Near Emmitsburg, Maryland
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sugarloaf Mountain  


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Location: 39.26381, -77.3953 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
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Kyle climbing "Seven Wishes" 5.6 G.

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There 

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directions....

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',6],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf Mountain:
Cub Scout Cracks (a.k.a. cakewalk cracks)   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 35'   Boy Scout Ledges
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Boy Scout Ledges
The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   Middle Earth
For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Earth
In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Earth
Slow & Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Devil's Kitchen : Mottled Wall
The Sherpa Connection   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   White Rocks
Wish You Were Here   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 26'   Boy Scout Ledges
Climber Sensitivity Training Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 30'   White Rocks
Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   Middle Earth
Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   Middle Earth
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf Mountain

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Mountain
The Prow at the boyscout ledge. 5.7 on face to lef...

The Prow Left 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Boy Scout Ledges
Fun climb up the face and then around to the left of The Prow. Some crack to work and a nice corner. Crux is the final move across the prow. It's right off the path to the top of Sugarloaf (about 40 feet) so you get a lot of watchers. Be careful how you setup your anchors, other climbers have mentioned biners on anchor ropes disappearing into the hands of hikers/schoolkids. You are right next to the Cub Scout cracks which are great for beginners or to learn place gear. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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