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Sugarloaf Mountain

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Boy Scout Ledges 
Devil's Kitchen 
Middle Earth 
Pillar, The 
West View Parking Lot Boulders 
White Rocks 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sugarloaf Mountain  


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Location: 39.266, -77.4044 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,465
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
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Kyle climbing "Seven Wishes" 5.6 G.

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There 

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directions....

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

33 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf Mountain:
Cub Scout Cracks (a.k.a. cakewalk cracks)   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 35'   Boy Scout Ledges
The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   Middle Earth
A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Middle Earth
Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Earth
In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Earth
Slow & Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Devil's Kitchen : Mottled Wall
The Sherpa Connection   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   White Rocks
Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   Middle Earth
Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   Middle Earth
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf Mountain

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Mountain
Start to Gap of Rohan. The "gap" is visible top right of the photo.

Gap of Rohan 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : White Rocks
This finger crack starts behind a tree on the left side of the main outcrop and heads straight up passing a small tree to the obvious "gap" in the cliff. Exiting the climb at the top on a couple slab moves may be the crux of the entire route....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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