Sugarloaf Mountain Rock Climbing
Kyle climbing "Seven Wishes" 5.6 G.
Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.
Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.
As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.
As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.
One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.
Please check out sugarloafmd.com/
for other information on the area.
From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.
From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.
From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
53 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf Mountain:
Featured Route For Sugarloaf Mountain
The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c MD
: Sugarloaf Mountain
: Middle Earth
The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch....[more] Browse More Classics in MD
By Alec Manougian
Mar 15, 2016
Anyone know if there are slings/nuts left at the top of the majority of the Trad routes? What are the expected rappel options here without leaving additional gear?
Mar 16, 2016
Pretty much every route that I know of you can walk/scramble off, rappeling isn't necessary.