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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Sugarloaf, East Face  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7766, -120.3081 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 64,073
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
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Description 

This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.

Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.

Getting There 

Head up and right from the base of the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',7],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Harding's Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 435'   
Lurch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Swallow Tail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Morticia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Farley   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dominion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Blue Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Crushed Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
The Fracture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Telesis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Taurus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Beast of Burden   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Opus 7   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gallows Pole (direct)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Captain Fingers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Bill Price on "Grand Illusion". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Grand Illusion 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious.Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sugarloaf, East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Sugarloaf-East Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.

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