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L to R R to L Alpha
This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
Head up and right from the base of the rock.
31 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Harding's Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, 435'
Lurch 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Swallow Tail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Morticia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Farley 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Dominion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Crushed Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Blue Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Fracture 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Telesis 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Taurus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Beast of Burden 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 70'
Opus 7 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Gallows Pole (direct) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Captain Fingers 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Grand Illusion 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious.Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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