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Sugarloaf, East Face

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Beast of Burden 
Bird Man 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Crushed Velvet 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Stone 
Swallow Tail 
Taurus 
Telesis 

Sugarloaf, East Face 


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Location: 38.7766, -120.3081 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,135
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: East Face classics

Description 

This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.

Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.


Getting There 

Head up and right from the base of the rock.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Harding's Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 435'   
Lurch   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad   
Swallow Tail   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Morticia   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Farley   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dominion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Crushed Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Blue Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Fracture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad   
Telesis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Taurus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Beast of Burden   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Opus 7   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gallows Pole (direct)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Captain Fingers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Bill Price on "Grand Illusion". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Grand Illusion 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious.Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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Sugarloaf-East Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf-East Face.
Photo by Blitzo.
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