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Sugarloaf, East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Sugarloaf, East Face Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7766, -120.3081 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,763
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.


This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.

Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.

Getting There 

Head up and right from the base of the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Harding's Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 435'   
Scheister   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Lurch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches   
Swallowtail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Morticia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Farley   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Fang-Left Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dominion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Crushed Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Monkey Flower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Blue Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Fracture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Telesis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Taurus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Opus 7   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Beast of Burden   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Gallows Pole (direct)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
The Mini Illusion   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Captain Fingers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Grand Illusion   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Karsten at the crux of The Fracture on a beautiful...

The Fracture 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Tahoe : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
100 feet uphill from "The Fang" is this thin crack/flake. Climb this to it's end.Another 5.7 pitch leads to the Eastern Terrace.A walk left takes you to the "Grand Illusion"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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Rock Climbing Photo: East Face classics
BETA PHOTO: East Face classics

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By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 9, 2016

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