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Sugarloaf Area

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East Slabs 
Sugarloaf 
Sugarloaf's Stepchild 

Sugarloaf Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 32.34766, -106.54415 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,602
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jul 23, 2013
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Sunset on Sugarloaf from the campground

Description 

Sugarloaf and East Slabs

Getting There 

from Aguirre Springs Campground

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.4 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf Area:
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1800'   Sugarloaf
Flea Tree   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Sugarloaf
Normal Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   East Slabs
Left Eyebrow   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 9 pitches   Sugarloaf
The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dihedral   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   East Slabs
Banana Peel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 400'   Sugarloaf
Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Sugarloaf
Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 9 pitches, 800'   Sugarloaf
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf Area

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the belay at the top of pitch 3 is p...

Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : Sugarloaf
Described as a highly recommended Organ classic, this climb is a great way to reach the Sugarloaf summit, for a party that's up for climbing 5.10 slabs. Don't be discouraged by the 5.11 rating, the crux section is short, right at a bolt which you could easily aid off of to get through, or avoided altogether by poorly protected 5.9 friction traverse.Some, but not all, of the original 1/4" bolts have been replaced with modern 3/8" bolts, and all of the hanging belays have at least one new bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sugarloaf Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sugarloaf area. Photo George Ray.
Sugarloaf area. Photo George Ray.
Rock Climbing Photo: view from adjacent hill top
view from adjacent hill top

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