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Sugarloaf Area

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East Slabs 
Sugarloaf 
Sugarloaf's Stepchild 

Sugarloaf Area  


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Location: 32.34766, -106.54415 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,075
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jul 23, 2013
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Sunset on Sugarloaf from the campground

Description 

Sugarloaf and East Slabs

Getting There 

from Aguirre Springs Campground

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.4 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf Area:
North Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1800'   Sugarloaf
Flea Tree   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Sugarloaf
Left Eyebrow   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 9 pitches   Sugarloaf
The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dihedral   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   East Slabs
Banana Peel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 400'   Sugarloaf
Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Sugarloaf
Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 9 pitches, 800'   Sugarloaf
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf Area

Featured Route For Sugarloaf Area
The view from the belay at the top of pitch 3 is pretty outstanding as are the chicken head moves traversing out left onto this face.

Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : Sugarloaf
Described as a highly recommended Organ classic, this climb is a great way to reach the Sugarloaf summit, for a party that's up for climbing 5.10 slabs. Don't be discouraged by the 5.11 rating, the crux section is short, right at a bolt which you could easily aid off of to get through, or avoided altogether by poorly protected 5.9 friction traverse.Some, but not all, of the original 1/4" bolts have been replaced with modern 3/8" bolts, and all of the hanging belays have at least one new bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sugarloaf Area Slideshow Add Photo
Sugarloaf area. Photo George Ray.
Sugarloaf area. Photo George Ray.
view from adjacent hill top
view from adjacent hill top

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