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Sugarite State Park

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Little Horse Mesa 

Sugarite State Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 36.9798, -104.3937 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,012
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Karl K on Jun 18, 2008
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Sunset at Sugarite

Description 

Pronounced Sugar-reet. A 40-50' basalt cliff with a variety of fun vertical cracks & face climbs. Climbs have all been led, but toproping is possible on virtually all climbs: anchors (often bolts) are easily set up (you may need a longer stretch of webbing/rope for some of the climbs). The altitude (around 8,000') means that climbing can be nice even in the summer; however, the cliff faces SE, so it may get too warm even here.
Rock quality on the established climbs is usually very good.


Getting There 

Sugarite is NE of the town of Raton, NM. Raton is about 20 miles south of the Colorado border on Interstate 25. To get to the cliff: take exit 452 onto Highway 72. Follow 72 east and take a mild left onto 526 (signs point the way to Sugarite). As you travel up this road and enter the park, you will either need to pay the day-use fee ($5 in 2008) at the kiosk, or continue up to your campground (you pay either the day-use fee or the camping fee [$10], not both). About 2.5 miles past the visitor center (has free showers!) is a dirt road leading left to Soda Pocket Campground. The campground is just under 2 miles up the road (and is the logical place to stay if climbing), but the parking for the climbing is just after a corral (~1.3 miles from the turn). The main trail, "Little Horse Mesa" trail leaves from the right side of the road near a sign that says "No horses or mules beyond this point".
Approach the cliff-top from this trail: (it heads up the valley for a half mile or so, splits to the right (this is signed well), hump up the steep, but short hill and then walk the half mile back to the top of the cliff. You will know you are close when you see a dry lake bed on your left.
There is another trail that leads to the bottom of the cliff; it starts by taking the main trail to the right from the parking area for 3-400 yards. If you can spot the cairns, follow the faint trail through brambles and talus to the base. ( I would recommend the clifftop trail on your first visit, then leave via the other trail so you know where it goes....)


47 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',10],['5.9',9],['5.10',22],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarite State Park:
Pete's Downclimb   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Little Horse Mesa
Right on Raton   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Salt Mother   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Crack Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Great Roof Left   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Endless Summer   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Sangre Verde   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, TR, 50'   Little Horse Mesa
Jam Your Blues Away   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 45'   Little Horse Mesa
Taos Lightning   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, TR, 45'   Little Horse Mesa
S&M Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 75'   Little Horse Mesa
Browse More Classics in Sugarite State Park

Featured Route For Sugarite State Park
Casey climbing out of the cave

Resurrection Link Up 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : ... : Little Horse Mesa
This climb starts at the bottom of the cave below Wounded Knee. Climb up amazing finger locks and interesting mantles for 25 feet into the start of Wounded Knee. Continue up Wounded Knee to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sugarite State Park Slideshow Add Photo
The sun setting on the cliffs at Sugarite State Park in the fall.
The sun setting on the cliffs at Sugarite State Pa...
Rainy day hike at Sugarite.
Rainy day hike at Sugarite.
Crack from Hell.  (5.10-)
Crack from Hell. (5.10-)
Comments on Sugarite State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Nov 17, 2006

Does anyone know the latest on Sugarite SP? I was surprised not to see it on here since there are some routes still in place. It's a fun crag, hopefully it'll be re-developed someday.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 24, 2010

An online version of a guide to Sugarite is posted on the Cimarron, NM Chamber of Commerce webpage: here linked to from it's main page: www.cimarronnm.com/recreation.html#rockclimb

By Williampenner
From: The 505
Feb 25, 2010

It does not say it in the guidebook, but be very careful because of bears in the thick trees on the approach to cliff. You are almost guaranteed to see a few and I have repeatedly come within 10 to 20 feet of moms and cubs in this area; each time was quite a surprise. Usually they are cool and wander off.

Don't leave food in the pack and use caution when camping nearby, although I don't think the local bears are Yosemite-caliber thieves yet and able to break into cars.

W