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 ADVANCED
East Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adagio T 
Adam's Rib T 
Beyond The Abyss S 
Block Party S 
Chestnut T 
Fun Park S 
Goldrush S 
Moondance S 
Neve Climb On S 
Northern Lights T,S 
Powder in the Sky T 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 
Slot Right Step Left T 
Slot, The T 
Sugar Mama T 
Yellow Latex Blues S 
Yorkey's Crumpet T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sugar Mama 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: D. Langmade, Steve Moose, 1978
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a classic case of a pretty line and a not very good climb. Uphill from The Slot and just below Chestnut, look for a cool looking, dark corner.

Climb this corner to a ledge just below where the corner looks blank. Here you make a decision. Traverse left to easier ground and use the Chestnut tree anchor to descend OR continue up the blank corner at about 5.9 R.


Protection 

A single set of small cams and stoppers.



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By Becky Gibbs
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2008

I climbed the upper dihedral direct (5.9 R) and thought it was fun (3 stars).